Flipmeister Saddle Bag stiffeners

Hardware color/finish options


  • Total voters
    18
  • Poll closed .
my bags seem saggy because I use the easy brackets...

or is that my bags are saggy because I'm easy :D


I might even put the stock bracketry back on for my big trip in june to accomadate all the stuff I'll cram in there
 
Dear Mrs Pig9r

Dear Mr. Flipmeister,

I don't not have Triumph saddlebags on my bike. However, since the birth of my son my wife's bags seem to be sagging and after one year they have not regained their original shape. Will your product help her?

Signed,

Concerned rider and loyal customer
Your husband has contacted us for
 
my bags seem saggy because I use the easy brackets...

or is that my bags are saggy because I'm easy :D


I might even put the stock bracketry back on for my big trip in june to accomadate all the stuff I'll cram in there
Your bags are saggy because there full of dirt..BJC
 
what if........

flip,
if the poll shows a two way tie, are you gonna offer,say, black and/or brushed stainless? the black would look nice on the inside,the stainless(brushed) would match up nicely with the nickel plated buckles......:D
greg
 
I'll probably offer a choice of finishes in the event of a 'tie'. Whatever the exterior finish is, the interior finish will be the same, example: If the exterior is black anodized, the interior will also be black anodized. The buckle fitments are nickle finished cold rivets inside and outside.
 
looking black

well flip,
it's looking like the black anodized might get the nod. i suppose that's the best way to go for me, cause i might not line every thing up quite right and black won't stick out so bad if a slight mis alignment occurs :(. then again, that brushed stainless sure would blend nice with the nickel finish we already have:). either way,it's all good; thanks for giving us a vote :D....
greg
 
No worry Greg:

Everything will line up perfectly. The inserts will have pre-drilled holes, both the bag liners and the lid liners. Basically, what you will do is remove the bags and drill through the leather bags using the pre drilled holes in the liners themselves. I'm even going to supply the correct size drill bit. No, I'm not going to supply an electric drill with each kit.:eek:
 
nice kit

flip,
the more you idiot proof all this,the easier it gets for a half blind machinist like me.
by the way,i gots plenty of 135 degree split points, so you can hang on to the bit. or send it. at my age, i'm always burning the primary edges or chipping flutes :eek:..... am i gonna need to center drill this stuff ?:D nawwww, just kidding:rolleyes:. any way, i appreciate and thank you for doing this for us.....
greg:)
 
Goodfellow:

Honestly, I have basically quit using any twist drill unless it's a parabolic flute. I used to be a big fan of Cleveland Twist but I've switched to the German parabolic M-42 Cobalt drills. They are a little harder to sharpen but I'm really good at offhand sharpening, even the tiny ones (with the help of a magnifier). I had a Darex unit that sharpened end mills and drills but I sold it. I can do the drills by hand and I had to relieve the lands manually anyway. End mills go in the scrap can. I have a nice center axis end mill sharpener for the surface grinder but it's too much of a hassle to set it up because the electromagnetic chuck has to come off the table.

I like the parabolic drills simply because I can go from high alloy to 6000 series aluminum with the same drill. Taps and mills are a different animal, however.

I'll just ring up my buds over at MSC and order a lot box of whatever size drill I'll need and include them with the liners, which, by the way, the prototypes will be finished Sunday.
 
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