Clutch Rebuild

[sleeves]

Spring goes over pin. Probably more important is hook goes thru the detent arm from fore to aft. Which if wound right should leave the hook going over the pin. And makes it easier to install. I am curious as to which detent spring you got. The original or the new one that goes with the new smaller diameter detent wheel.

Gday

I suspect I got the one for the newer detent wheel as I got a detent wheel and gear at the same time. Its different to the one that came out. My old one had more coils and bigger hooks. I had to reshape one of the hooks to hold the detent arm side slightly better, but only slightly. It would appear my old detent spring was on upside down as it cam under the pin so I refitted the new one in the same orientation. There was nearly tears getting the new one on as there was a lot of parts in the way and it required care with a pair on long nosed pliers, its dark in there too.

Will swap over tonight will be much easier


Thanks again

 

[Boog]

I too will need to rebuild my clutch soon. @warp9.9 says even I can do it at home (I can barely spell the word clutch) and after getting an estimate from the dealer at $1,700, looks like I will surely be doing it elsewhere.

So Barnett is the way to go?

 

[Joesmoe]

@Boog, we can change the clutch in my garage if you wish.

 

[Boog]

@Boog, we can change the clutch in my garage if you wish.

Thanks Paul, I may take you up on your offer.

 

[sonny]

I too will need to rebuild my clutch soon. @warp9.9 says even I can do it at home (I can barely spell the word clutch) and after getting an estimate from the dealer at $1,700, looks like I will surely be doing it elsewhere.

So Barnett is the way to go?

Barnett works for me. No problems at all since installing. A little tighter pull due to the springs but not bad.

 

[sleeves]

I too will need to rebuild my clutch soon. @warp9.9 says even I can do it at home (I can barely spell the word clutch) and after getting an estimate from the dealer at $1,700, looks like I will surely be doing it elsewhere.

So Barnett is the way to go?

I have more to write up on this after some more discussion and measuring with @Paul Bryant yesterday but need to sit down and do some math and possibly drawing. I found something odd in the clutchplates that got me thinking about the way my clutch operated and think this may also be the reason the drive dogs wear.

As far as Barnett being the way to go I selected these as I have used Barnett in my old bikes and its always been good. They are a specialist company and the products are made in the USA to a high standard. With old pommie bikes in the 70s the americans were good at producing performance parts for them for racing hence this is only a preference of mine.

In looking at the stock,vs Barnett and MTC plates yesterday (and i need to do the math yet) it appears at first glance that while the MTC springs are not much better than standard, the plates have more surface area in regard to the fibre, but I need to work this out.

Jobs pretty straight forward but suggest you also plan to do the following at the same time.

1. Radiator Hoses (hey, you"ve got it apart)
2. Detent Spring. (cheap)
3. Waterpump Orings (cheap)
4. Replace the main clutch nut (cheap and I forgot to order one but should have)
5. Lastly and most importantly if you have an older bike with the needle roller type actuator on the out plate, change both the outer clutch plate, bearing and pull rod to the later Roadster type. Reason is I think its this thats causing the rubbish gearchanges and it highlights why its so important to have the clutch cable adjusted correctly. This cost a little more to do but I pretty sure I wont regret it and I havent begun reassembly yet.

Oh and you need a clutch locking tool, (only if heading for the detent spring though), I'm going to take a number of the old plates and steels, line them up, drill and bolt them to make one.

 

[Boog]

@sleeves my bike is a 2014 so I think it isn't one you refer too. I am a few ticks over 53,000 miles now and it is not bad yet, only when I try to roll on hard does it momentarily slip.

I will keep reading your thread here and when the times comes, start my own. Who knows what merriment awaits me?

 

[warp9.9]

@sleeves my bike is a 2014 so I think it isn't one you refer too. I am a few ticks over 53,000 miles now and it is not bad yet, only when I try to roll on hard does it momentarily slip.

I will keep reading your thread here and when the times comes, start my own. Who knows what merriment awaits me?

Will it smoke the tire?

 

[Torque addict]

In looking at the stock,vs Barnett and MTC plates yesterday (and i need to do the math yet) it appears at first glance that while the MTC springs are not much better than standard, the plates have more surface area in regard to the fibre, but I need to work this out.


Oh and you need a clutch locking tool, (only if heading for the detent spring though), I'm going to take a number of the old plates and steels, line them up, drill and bolt them to make one.

Whatever you do DON'T use the MTC springs! Read this: Upgrading your clutch springs?? What NOT to buy... MTC

I made a clutch locking tool just as you describe. Works fine.

 

[1olbull]

@Boog, we can change the clutch in my garage if you wish.

Paul, you be a GOOD man!
A clutch re-do for @Boog at the curb would really suck!!!