Clutch Lifter Shaft

[Terryfyd]

I purchased a 2005 Rocket III several years ago. One of the first modifications I did was put in a Barnett Heavy Duty Clutch. Over the years I've had to continually adjust the clutch cable tighter. Several times I even had to re-index the clutch lifter arm on the clutch lifter shaft as I ran out of cable. Today I bit the bullet and cracked its chest open again. The problem was apparent immediately. The lifter piece wore through the lifter shaft where they make contact. I'll be ordering all new pieces that were affected. Are the Barnett clutch springs too strong? Should I put my old springs back in? Could I have screwed something up on the install and still get 3 years out of it? Check out the pics. I had to grind down the lifter shaft to get it out of the clutch cover. any insight would be appreciated as don't want to make a habit of opening this thing up. Thanks in advance!

 

[TURBO200R4]

if at one time you did not have the 2-3mm clearance in the lever that would start it going bad.
i worked on one like that and when i relocked the arm it was super hard to pull the lever so time for replacing parts.
are you aware there is updated parts.
don't know about the springs pressure some others can answer that questions.

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

You just may have a few things going on here.
The old anaemic version of the pull rod / lifter piece was superseded in around 2008 iirc so you got the old one.
But to be fair it didn't break.. though it hadn't long left by the look of it.
Yours looks like incorrect clutch adjustment, and likely clutch lever being held too long and maybe revving it while clutch lever pulled.
Stronger springs aren't a problem per se, but do mean more pressure on the contact points between lifter shaft and lifter piece aka pull rod so if you're out of adjustment and or revving with lever pulled then it gonna wear faster.

Would advise to replace pull rod and lifter shaft with latest versions, keep cable adjusted exactly per the manual, and no revving with clutch pulled or holding clutch lever in for any longer than to change gear.
Oh yes yours has the old pressure plate, and roller bearing too. You want to upgrade those to latest version too, they were superseded in late 05 early 06 iirc. Since then it's a ball bearing and of course the accompanying pressure plate.

Illustrated history of lifter piece pull rod;

 

[sleeves]

My 05 has a Barnett clutch as slip started to occur. Before I pulled it apart I ordered later model parts and fitted them as @R-III-R Turbo says the original parts were quickly superceded the new ones are much better. Also if you're going to the trouble replace the radiator hoses with Samco or similar as radiators got to come off. Did detent spring too, just in case

 

[Chariot]

You just may have a few things going on here.
The old anaemic version of the pull rod / lifter piece was superseded in around 2008 iirc so you got the old one.
But to be fair it didn't break.. though it hadn't long left by the look of it.
Yours looks like incorrect clutch adjustment, and likely clutch lever being held too long and maybe revving it while clutch lever pulled.
Stronger springs aren't a problem per se, but do mean more pressure on the contact points between lifter shaft and lifter piece aka pull rod so if you're out of adjustment and or revving with lever pulled then it gonna wear faster.

Would advise to replace pull rod and lifter shaft with latest versions, keep cable adjusted exactly per the manual, and no revving with clutch pulled or holding clutch lever in for any longer than to change gear.
Oh yes yours has the old pressure plate, and roller bearing too. You want to upgrade those to latest version too, they were superseded in late 05 early 06 iirc. Since then it's a ball bearing and of course the accompanying pressure plate.

Illustrated history of lifter piece pull rod;

I now have a 2017 model pulling my trike which looks like its done exactly what you show . I have ordered a replacement Barnet clutch(aprox 3500 on the old one ) but looks like I will need the lifter and shaft before I get my buddy to do the job for me. Thanks very much for the post, it has been very helpful. Also experiencing 4th gear problems jumping out but thats for later in the year .I can live with it till winter. The weight of my trike plus wheelchair does not help but I didn't have any problem with gear box on the 2016 model that I wrote off . If anyone out there could give me a parts list for the overhaul of the gear box would be most grateful.
'

 

[Gerald]

I now have a 2017 model pulling my trike which looks like its done exactly what you show . I have ordered a replacement Barnet clutch(aprox 3500 on the old one ) but looks like I will need the lifter and shaft before I get my buddy to do the job for me. Thanks very much for the post, it has been very helpful. Also experiencing 4th gear problems jumping out but thats for later in the year .I can live with it till winter. The weight of my trike plus wheelchair does not help but I didn't have any problem with gear box on the 2016 model that I wrote off . If anyone out there could give me a parts list for the overhaul of the gear box would be most grateful.
'

Sorry you're having problems, as far as the transmission believe I would wait until I opened it up, so many variables involved.

 

[Claviger]

As mentioned new pieces and more slack in clutch cable. A surefire test is: can you pull the clutch while in 1st and with minimal effort glide it into neutral every time? If not, cable is too tight.

2nd Gen Hayabusa clutch is a direct swap. Cheaper, stronger, easier to source. Reuse stock springs.

For fourth gear slips, sounds like worn gear/dogs. You'll want to replace 4th and the matching dog ring and all the belville washers/clips/etc while doing it. Good time to refresh the detent spring as well. 4th is the weakest gear but the dog ring slipping off the gear has more to do with alignment/clearances than absolute strength.

In your case, being a heavier vehicle with cargo, I would definitely do the Robinson work to ensure when you put it in gear it stays in gear and doesn't cause damage due to extra stresses. They also realign everything to have correct tolerances along the shafts when cutting the wider circlip grooves. As a result it shifts better than stock, less effort and better engagement; a small step from tractor towards motorcycle feeling.

Labor is...costly, as the engine has to come out and cases need to be split. Honestly one of the worst jobs on an R3 due to the design not really being focused on service needs.

 

[Chariot]

As mentioned new pieces and more slack in clutch cable. A surefire test is: can you pull the clutch while in 1st and with minimal effort glide it into neutral every time? If not, cable is too tight.

2nd Gen Hayabusa clutch is a direct swap. Cheaper, stronger, easier to source. Reuse stock springs.

For fourth gear slips, sounds like worn gear/dogs. You'll want to replace 4th and the matching dog ring and all the belville washers/clips/etc while doing it. Good time to refresh the detent spring as well. 4th is the weakest gear but the dog ring slipping off the gear has more to do with alignment/clearances than absolute strength.

In your case, being a heavier vehicle with cargo, I would definitely do the Robinson work to ensure when you put it in gear it stays in gear and doesn't cause damage due to extra stresses. They also realign everything to have correct tolerances along the shafts when cutting the wider circlip grooves. As a result it shifts better than stock, less effort and better engagement; a small step from tractor towards motorcycle feeling.

Labor is...costly, as the engine has to come out and cases need to be split. Honestly one of the worst jobs on an R3 due to the design not really being focused on service needs.

Hi, thanks for the reply. I have arranged with Paul Lumley of Lumley Engineering to send it down to them this winter. My main problem is getting a shop where they can lift the trike to get the engine out as its fairly large. Also they don't want it clogging up the shop for too long. I will discuss with Paul whether he would consider sending the engine to Robinson to get the work done. Any idea of costs on a bare engine?
Cheers
Kenny

 

[Claviger]

Not these days, no, prices are so off from pre-pandemic I have no idea.

As I recall parts I was around $1300 when I did it. Labor I've seen quoted all over the place from $2500 and up.

Trans issues are often death sentences for Rocket 3s.