Valve inspection interval and findings

[sonny]

Glad it helped.

 

[oldnewR3T]

Hey Sonny,

Yes, the thread helped, but I still haven't been able to determine which tool you use for timing adjustment. Can you share details? Thanks, Steve

 

[sonny]

To help you out even better R-3 Turbo has a really sharp video on this subject. It is on you tube. Watch the video and any questions that you may still have just PM me and I will be glad to help. Helped a gentleman on here last week and believe he is good to go now.

 

[oldnewR3T]

Thanks, but might you have a link? Seems to be lots of R-3 turbo videos, but mainly for cars.

 

[Ralsmith]

If you want to make a tool to keep buckets depressed rather than messing with timing see below pictures

 

[Ralsmith]

Version 1 tool attached below. I made a new tool as displayed in prior post with a stud on it so that I could make sue cam ladder was not stressed when I placed tool on. Previously I had to remove bolt with cable springs compressed by cams, using a stud I could place that with springs released, tighten to 10nm then rotate cam to compress springs and lower buckets and then put tool onto of stud and nut to hold buckets in place while rotating cam 180 degrees to make space to flick shims out with home made pick and magnet on a stick

 

[oldnewR3T]

Thanks guys. I really don't want to mess with timing. I'll give this a try.

thanks,
Steve

 

[Ralsmith]

Thanks guys. I really don't want to mess with timing. I'll give this a try.

thanks,
Steve

It takes a few minutes of fine tuning the tool to get it where it just catches the lip on the bucket and not also snag the shim but once dialed I. It was very easy. Probably 5 minutes or less per pair of valves. Longest delay was getting new shims once I had measured old shims, calculated new value, replaced old shim in bucket to move onto next pair of valves. Repeat, for all those I was changing. Make sure you rotate bucket when spring is released to center the notch so you can pick out shim prior to depressing spring and holding bucket down. Do not compress spring with tool, rotate cam to depress spring, hold bucket dow with tool, then rotate cam 180 degrees to take shim out. Replace shim and rotate cam to depress spring before removing tool. Let the cam do all the work, the tool is just to keep bucket depressed for access.

 

[oldnewR3T]

It takes a few minutes of fine tuning the tool to get it where it just catches the lip on the bucket and not also snag the shim but once dialed I. It was very easy. Probably 5 minutes or less per pair of valves. Longest delay was getting new shims once I had measured old shims, calculated new value, replaced old shim in bucket to move onto next pair of valves. Repeat, for all those I was changing. Make sure you rotate bucket when spring is released to center the notch so you can pick out shim prior to depressing spring and holding bucket down. Do not compress spring with tool, rotate cam to depress spring, hold bucket dow with tool, then rotate cam 180 degrees to take shim out. Replace shim and rotate cam to depress spring before removing tool. Let the cam do all the work, the tool is just to keep bucket depressed for access.

Many thanks! These little devils in the details make all the difference in spending hours vs. days. I'll get to carving out the tool and hopefully be ready for the shims when they arrive later this week.

 

[sonny]

To each his own. I remove the cams and then replace shims. Double check after cams are installed. Everything fully compressed and good to go with really accurate readings. Some will always take the easy road. I do not. I like my bike to run properly. After 68,000 miles and other than the transmission going south have had some good luck with the bike. Wish you well.