Rocket Clutch Cable Install

[1olbull]

This is done so seldom one usually forgets how and has to reinvent the wheel.
After several bar changes, I have bit the bullet and changed out my bars to a set that required lengthening all my wiring and the control cables.

This long-ass adventure has involved many iterations of routing, connecting, removing, reconnecting both of the throttle cables and the clutch cable before I finally arrived at my sweet spot. I reckon now that I have finally got this stuff straight!

Just FYI - I thought it may be helpful to offer others what I have found to be the best Clutch Cable install scenario.


If folks find this helpful, I shall also do one on the throttle cables.

 

[Bedifferent]

Yup...pretty much the way I did mine and will have to do it "again" in a day or two. Went with a plus 2 1/2" extra length this time for the Rivco Risers. The plus
1 1/2" was tight. I'll have to return it for repair as they failed to put the hard plastic bushing on one of the ferrules

I believe the Barnett cables are not metric. It seems as though I found the fittings were 5/16" on the adjuster and 7/16" on the nuts. I remember thinking I might have to add those to my tool bag. 13mm would work in a pinch.

One more thing...It was suggested in a post to remove the side shroud and screen. Good tip! I have noticed on my rockets that the shroud screws like to loosen up over time. I decided to put an ever so small amount of locktight blue on them. I didn't get to aggresive with that because the fittings are fastened to the radiator. You might keep a eye on those screws.

 

[1olbull]

Yup...pretty much the way I did mine and will have to do it "again" in a day or two. Went with a plus 2 1/2" extra length this time for the Rivco Risers. The plus
1 1/2" was tight. I'll have to return it for repair as they failed to put the hard plastic bushing on one of the ferrules

I believe the Barnett cables are not metric. It seems as though I found the fittings were 5/16" on the adjuster and 7/16" on the nuts. I remember thinking I might have to add those to my tool bag. 13mm would work in a pinch.

You are correct.
I know the push cable bar end bolt is 5/8" SAE.

I also extended my brake line, which is now 3/8 x 24 thread.

 

[Jag]

Yup...pretty much the way I did mine and will have to do it "again" in a day or two. Went with a plus 2 1/2" extra length this time for the Rivco Risers. The plus
1 1/2" was tight. I'll have to return it for repair as they failed to put the hard plastic bushing on one of the ferrules

I believe the Barnett cables are not metric. It seems as though I found the fittings were 5/16" on the adjuster and 7/16" on the nuts. I remember thinking I might have to add those to my tool bag. 13mm would work in a pinch.

One more thing...It was suggested in a post to remove the side shroud and screen. Good tip! I have noticed on my rockets that the shroud screws like to loosen up over time. I decided to put an ever so small amount of locktight blue on them. I didn't get to aggresive with that because the fittings are fastened to the radiator. You might keep a eye on those screws.

Please post how the 2 1/2 works

 

[warp9.9]

This is done so seldom one usually forgets how and has to reinvent the wheel.
After several bar changes, I have bit the bullet and changed out my bars to a set that required lengthening all my wiring and the control cables.

This long-ass adventure has involved many iterations of routing, connecting, removing, reconnecting both of the throttle cables and the clutch cable before I finally arrived at my sweet spot. I reckon now that I have finally got this stuff straight!

Just FYI - I thought it may be helpful to offer others what I have found to be the best Clutch Cable install scenario.


If folks find this helpful, I shall also do one on the throttle cables.

Not Bad I never tried it that way I usually remove the bracket off the clutch cover. but now that I think about it I have never changed one that had the crash bars only with blower kit both with and without inner-cooler.

 

[Bedifferent]

Please post how the 2 1/2 works

When I get it done I'll post the difference between both.

 

[Ishrub]

Scootworks - Hydraulic Line Extender for 1" & 1.25" handlebars

Scootworks' BLX - Brake Line Extender
Easily Extend Hydraulic Brake & Clutch Hoses


The BLX™ by Scootworks- Available for Handlebars of 1" and 1.25" in diameter. - A great and cost effective alternative to replacing the complete hydraulic hose system on bikes with ABS and/or coordinated braking!



This system was originally designed as an answer for obtaining more front brake hose on bikes with ABS or coordinated braking. A Honda VTX1800 is a good example, where the front brake hose is actually part of an integrated system with several hoses, and a simple longer front brake hose can't be installed. A custom build to lengthen the front brake hose in the handlbar area costs $500+! This alone prohibits many handlebars and handlebar risers from being installed for comfort or customization. You simply install our BLX100™ or BLX125™, blead the line, and you're finished.



Another great application for this is on baggers with dual front brake calipers, where access to the lower manifold and lower dual brake lines is difficult. The is an easy installation, and often less expensive than buying an extended front hose set for bike of that type.



The BLX100™ is for 1" handlebars, the BLX125™ is for 1.25" handlebars. This uses a conventional 10mm banjo size, and is compatable with most all H-D, Honda, Kawasaki, Yamaha, Suzuki, Triumph, etc. It can be purchased with the extension hose, or can be purchased as the manifold only (manifold, 2 banjo bolts, 4 crush washers, and mounting straps) for custom applications. This can also be used on bikes with a hydraulic clutch and avoid having to purchase the lengthy clutch hose...and MUCH easier to install, too!



The Scootworks BLX™ is also available for 7/8" & 1-1/2" handlebars on special request. Custom lengths are also available on special request.


-> Scootworks BLX100™ for 1" Handlebars, BLACK hose

• 
  
  
  • 
    --> BUY MANIFOLD KIT ONLY $49.99
    
    --> BUY COMPLETE 6" OVER KIT W/BLACK HOSE $109.99
    
    --> BUY COMPLETE 9" OVER KIT W/BLACK HOSE $111.99
    
    --> BUY COMPLETE 12" OVER KIT W/BLACK HOSE $114.99
    
    --> BUY COMPLETE 18" OVER KIT W/BLACK HOSE $119.99

-> Scootworks BLX100™ for 1" Handlebars, BRAIDED hose

• 
  
  
  • 
    --> BUY MANIFOLD KIT ONLY $49.99
    
    --> BUY COMPLETE 6" OVER KIT W/BRAIDED HOSE $109.99
    
    --> BUY COMPLETE 9" OVER KIT W/BRAIDED HOSE $111.99
    
    --> BUY COMPLETE 12" OVER KIT W/BRAIDED HOSE $114.99
    
    --> BUY COMPLETE 18" OVER KIT W/BRAIDED HOSE $119.99

-> Scootworks BLX125™ for 1-1/4" Handlebars, BLACK hose

• 
  
  
  • 
    --> BUY MANIFOLD KIT ONLY $49.99
    
    --> BUY COMPLETE 6" OVER KIT W/BLACK HOSE $109.99
    
    --> BUY COMPLETE 9" OVER KIT W/BLACK HOSE $111.99
    
    --> BUY COMPLETE 12" OVER KIT W/BLACK HOSE $114.99
    
    --> BUY COMPLETE 18" OVER KIT W/BLACK HOSE $119.99

-> Scootworks BLX125™ for 1-1/4" Handlebars, BRAIDED hose

• 
  
  
  • 
    --> BUY MANIFOLD KIT ONLY $49.99
    
    --> BUY COMPLETE 6" OVER KIT W/BRAIDED HOSE $109.99
    
    --> BUY COMPLETE 9" OVER KIT W/BRAIDED HOSE $111.99
    
    --> BUY COMPLETE 12" OVER KIT W/BRAIDED HOSE $114.99
    
    --> BUY COMPLETE 18" OVER KIT W/BRAIDED HOSE $119.99

Mock-up on typical 1" 'Beach Bar'

Attaches to handlebars for a clean method of extention.

No need to have an expensive custom multi-hose assembly fabricated, when you only need a few inches at the handlebars!

Available as a 'manifold only' for custom applications

Radiused bottom of a clean fit against your handlebars in an obscure location.

Full kit with manifold, extension hose, 2 banjo bolts, 4 copper crush washers, and attachment straps.

 

[1olbull]

Me reckons those to be cobby looking and the addition of just more possibilities for leaks or blockages.
The new brake line connector at the OEM joint under the tank provides a simple, clean and unobstructed brake line replacement.

 

[Bedifferent]

Please post how the 2 1/2 works

I just realized I took pictures and never posted this. Hopefully this helps people decide. 2" might be the magic number for me.

BTW...From a previous comment I made...I never returned the cable for repair. They told me since they switched the cable end piece to stainless steel the plastic ferrule was not needed anymore and they were not putting it on.

 

[warp9.9]

I'd have to say that looks pretty good. And I agree 2 would probably work. But the the 1.5 worked on Pauls Touring though a wee bit more dificult to mess with. Its just my opinion but I think the 2.5 is what I would choose.