H4 Headlight Relay Kit

Once again I've learned a lot from this forum.

I am now going to go with the H4 dual headlight kit with switching capability + PC8 with 30A short relay kit + single horn relay kit for the Stebel Nautilus.

Question: why shouldn't I run the Stebel horn to the PC8?

Another question - did anyone go with the Stebel horn and still keep the OEM Triumph horn functional?
 
Good choice on your configuration.

To answer your question about running the Stebel through the PC8. First, Jim (the Eastern Beaver guy) does not recommend that you do so on his web site. It says on the Horn Relay page:

"IMPORTANT: You can connect a Horn Kit through an auxiliary fuse panel only if you don't have a lot of high current stuff already connected. A high powered horn like the Nautilus can draw 16 Amps and that could blow the main fuse on your fuse panel if you're already drawing more than 14 Amps. I suggest connecting a Horn Kit directly to the battery so your fuse panel retains its full capacity. Add up the Amps from your horn or horns if you are wondering if you should connect to your fuse panel. More than 10 Amps of horn(s) should go directly on the battery."​

Second, think about the current flow. From the horn back towards the power source, you first run into the 30 amp horn relay. This, presumably, is good for the full 30 amp draw from the power source. From the relay continuing back towards the battery you have a 20 amp inline fuse to tame the load. This is the preferred and recommended install.

If you were to run the circuit back to one of the unswitched ports on the PC8, you should note that the unswitched ports are rated for max 20 amps and 15 amps continuous. So if you have an oblivitard moving into your lane and you lay on the Stebel to do its work, you will most likely melt the fuse panel and be left without a horn and other accessories.
 

And that would be sad.
 
..I've got two stebels mounted (one on each side of the top of the radiator)..they are the electromagnetic type, not electro pneumatic..no compressor on these..got 'em on ebay..can't remember which seller..make sure ya get the real ones made in Italy, not some knock off from Asia.. Stebel Magnum 139dB horns Chromed Pair Be Safe Be Heard - eBay (item 110652973969 end time Apr-23-11 20:40:57 PDT)

..I've got these plugged into the dual horn relay kit that Eastern Beaver sells..sounds like a freaking bus..
 
Hi
Just fitted the beaver power head light relay kit after all I have read on this forum I thought it was about time. Must say I have never have had a problem with the lights or ignition. However when I remove the right light H4 socket from the lamp I found that the blue/red wire had been over heating and welded itself to the H4 holder and had started to burn the wire insulating cover and the copper crimp was all discoloured with the heat. The only thing I can think of that would cause this is a bad connection.
OK now on to the beaver power head light relay kit from what I read this is a good bit of kit and it looks it. This is only let down by having no wiring drawing or instructions in the box. I know you can go on his site and find all you need there well if you are familiar with wiring you can. It is pretty poor if you’re not. However I found it straight forward. Went for a 50 mile run and all seems ok. All in all am very happy with this mod.


Just a question I thought beaver power was a US company so the bits I buy in the US I get sent to Houston to avoid paying UK tax and collect them when I am over. Do you guys have to pay import tax from Japan?
 
It's that green corrosion that insulates a few strands of wire from the rest. The ones still making contact with the crimp turn into a toaster until they connect with the other wires further up inside the wire insulation. Meanwhile the hot wires burn the plastic they contact with. It's tough to prevent, a little water gets in the headlight bucket and the wire reacts with the copper connector.
Those Posiconnectors solve the trouble, good thing you caught it before it melted everything together. Some time after years of it being a toaster, you go to replace a burned out headlight on the road and find out the whole plug is welded onto the bulb.
 
relay kit

Ok i have purchased the headlight relay kit from eastern beaver with low beam cut off switch, i know how to hook up the power end and the low beam cut off switch the problem is i have two posi lock conectors just two wires , and two sets of what im thinking are h4 conectors with 3 wires apiece , im confused on what conecters go where , im gonna be getting power through the pc8 fuse panel , can someone explain the process for some reason the install page on the eastern beaver website is confusing the hell outa me , and i bought the rocket specific relay kit, i will be doing this mod soon when my pc 8 relay kit shows up, forgot to order it when i orderd the fuse panel
 
Go to "BearClaw Corner" and look at the instructions under "standard headlight bulbs" provided by tdragger. Hope this helps.
 
The two wires are for the positive high and low beams, the harness gets it's ground from another location and not the third headlight wire.
 
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