Flipmeister's Paddock Stand

Just got done with install of this P.stand, all went well, had to drill out the bottom lugs for it, about 10/15 minutes per side with the drill on the slow speed.

The test went well, I used a heavy duty ratchet and put my foot on to it to lift it, my only two complaints is the rear tire is only 1/8 to 1/4 off the floor though, was looking for more clearance like the one picture on the forum, would also prefer the stand to be a wider stands/foot print, this would make it easier to lift this 800LB behemoth with a breaker bare.

If in the future you were to make a wider stand, I would buy it.

This stand will facilitate easier oil changes that I will be doing next week, this is a nice addition to a bike lift.
 
Could you perhaps post a few pics showing the process? - Using the lift bar etc.?
The faint-hearted want to make sure they can do this without dropping the bike.

Do you have one that will work on the Roadster? Not sure of the hole-size.


Just go down to the local hardware store and get a 1" dia. black pipe three feet long and use that over the breaker bar. The hardest part is doing it the first time. Just go by the directions and you'll be fine.
 
Why is the rear tire is only 1/8 to 1/4 off the ground? Are their other Roadster owners useing this?
 

I caution against using a ratchet simply because the pawl teeth in any ratchet that's 1/2" drive aren't all that much (ever take one apart and look?). I'd suggest a forged steel long handled breaker bar of domestic manufacture, that is, not a Hradon Fright cheapie.

The end caps will sithstand any amount of torque you can bring to bear on them. They are 1/2" thick alloy steel.

As far as the width of the stand, the width is controlled by the cam plates and their relationship to the lug holes and nothing else. What you need to do is use a short extension (I use a 3" sxtension) between the breaker bar and the end plate to obtain added clearance. I've even use a 12" fill length extension but the problem with an extended extension bar enhahed in the broached hole is that because it takes some force to lift the bike, the extension will spring a bit.

I designed the stand to fit under the bike without anything protruding, to trip over. Extending the axle (center tube) would only defeat that intent. The cam plates have to be maintained at the present spacing in order for the pins to not to be overextended. The overall width of the stand is determined by you through the application of different lengths of extension bars.

All the other available stands that I've ever seen, emply the lift handle as a positioning device and that handle is hanging out in the breeze, waiting in anticipation for your foot or toes to get in there and breaking them. 800 pounds of elevated bike isn't going to move the lift handle (on the stands I've seen elsewhere). It's going to break your foot, toes or at least sprain your ankle.

Because the stand is designed for a stock shocked R3, longer or shorter shocks will effect tire clearance. I suggest using a piece of metal of the desired thickness between the stand and the floor to obtain the desired clearance you are looking for.

I just would not advise using a ratchet, They aren't designed for that type of torque load.
 
Could you perhaps post a few pics showing the process? - Using the lift bar etc.?
The faint-hearted want to make sure they can do this without dropping the bike.

Do you have one that will work on the Roadster? Not sure of the hole-size.

Even your wife (or girlfriend) can elevate the bike on the stand using the appropriate length of cheater pipe......

My wife can whip it right up on the stand, no problem.......

Far as the hole size goes, you need to get under there and see if a 1/2" (13mm) bolt slips through the hole. If it does, order the pre-2007 stand. If it don't order the other stand with the included dill and drill the lug holes to 1/2"

The two stands will fit any R3 made from inception to yesterday..... Hole size determination is up to you.
 
I'm thinking of getting this p-stand so I can do more of my own work.
I understand the centerstand on other bikes. They're usually much lighter and easier to roll on up.

Assuming the bike is on it's side stand, install the p-stand and get ready to:

1. Stand next to the bike and pull on the breaker bar to lift ? Doesn't make sense 'cause you have to lift the bike off the side stand first. Then hold it up ?
Or
2. Do you straddle the bike and push the bar down with your foot ?

I'm only asking because I'm doing this stuff by myself and I'm a bit worried about this massive bike falling over with me under it.

Thanks Flip !
 
While the bike is on the side stand you attach the paddock stand. I stand on the opposite side as the paddock stand and pull the bike upright. While facing the rear of the bike I push down on the breaker bar. Once there is a little bit of pressure on the stand it will hold the bike up and it stays up until it is rotated back on the stand. It takes a few times to get a feel for it.
 
A little trick I discovered.....use a piece of timber 1 x 2 inch and about the width of the rear tyre.
Tuck it in at the rear of the tyre, flat so its only an inch high. With the paddock stand already fitted you stand the same side as the side stand, lean the bike upright, put your foot on the paddock stand as if it were a centre stand.
You can then pull the bike back and as you do the rear tyre rolls onto the piece of wood and takes the weight and lifts the bike enough so it rolls onto the paddock stand with very little effort.
As the wood is only 2 inches the tyre rolls off the other side as the stand becomes almost in its intended position its then just a matter of making sure the stand is engaged correctly.
It may not work for everyone but it works for me.
 
R3 stand.

Yeah. I think I'll have to get one of those stands for my 09 r3t just as soon as you make some more. The website is great and the products look well designed. Can't wait till you've machined some more stands. I'll be checking your site regularly.