Wilber Front Fork Springs - Q on lowering standard R3

Discussion in 'Accessories' started by tribal, Nov 2, 2018.

  1. tribal

    tribal.020 Over

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    Hello, I ordered Wilber fork springs part number 600-0404-02 for my '05 R3.
    The on-line description states "For lowering 20 mm incl. reduction bushings"

    My mechanic opened the box today to install them and says there are no bushings in the box and that the instructions aren't clear??

    Has anyone installed these lowering springs and is there supposed to be bushings included or is
    that just a translation issue?

    Are there better installation instructions available?

    Install is on hold pending response from Mecadata or Wilber (english speaking tech was out today).

    TIA
     
  2. Claviger

    ClavigerHP Junkie extraordinaire

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    Installation is consistent with any USD fork.

    Regarding g the missing bushing, definitely wait on Wilbers answer before attempting use, without it the spring preload will be wrong, I'd it's supposed to be there.
     
  3. tribal

    tribal.020 Over

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    Update:

    1. Instructions included with Wilbers Fork Spring - Zero friction - progressive for lowering are incomplete.
    Part numbers
    600-0404-02 - R3 Classic 20mm total

    600-0404-03 - R3 Roadster 25mm total? Why the difference when it looks like forks and springs are the same on both?

    No extra bushings are included or required!

    2. Instruction addendum from Wilbers not included:

    600-0404-02 - R3 Classic

    Following changes have to be done (by a specialized workshop):
    - Use Wilbers fork springs art.-no. 600-0404 and appropriate Wilbers-oil (SAE 10) with an air chamber-level of 110 mm.
    - Shorten the original preload bushings for 10 mm.
    - Push the fork tubes maximally 10 mm through the triple clamps.

    600-0404-03 - R3 Roadster
    The following reconstruction has to be carry out:
    - shove the fork for maximum 8 mm through the triple trees.
    - Use Wilbers fork springs no. 600-404- with forkoil SAE 10 and an airchamber of 110mm.
    - Shorten original preload bushings for 10mm.

    ......…. Hmm, that doesn't add up though. Looks like 18mm and not 25mm....


    3. Wibers spring GFP404 = 358mm length


    4. R3 Touring fork spring for lowering 25mm is part number
    600-0404-05

    5. The website is misleading and makes it look like you will get 1" with just the springs.
    I was hoping for a total of 1.5" with the triple tree trick adjustment but their total includes doing that mod...

    As I didn't have the step to cut the spacer, it wasn't done on my 2015 two weeks ago.
    I had already pushed the forks up in the triple trees so I'm really only 1/2" shorter but the handling is noticeably improved. Rear is lowered 1" with shocks and slightly more with Rikin Raptor 245/50 darkside tire.

    Overall I am very happy with the new springs and am hoping the 2005 will be as good or better with the full 1" drop in the front with better springs.

     
  4. barbagris

    barbagrisMad Scientist

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    Be VERY careful lowering the front end of an R3 - the beast WILL ground in corners. Ask @1olbull who iirc came off when he hit tarmac with the engine in a corner.
    Pushing the forks up changes the steering angle - so if you return to stock position with the new springs that quickness in turns could well disappear.
     
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  5. 1olbull

    1olbullRiding Motor Since 1951

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    Good point, Chris; however, the pavement contact in my crash was the front of the left side peg rail.
    It was caused by a combination of a new 130 size front tire (Do Not Use on a Roadster) and center line rumble strips cut into the pavement and surrounded by 4" square, ½" thick and slick plastic reflective markers glued atop the pavement.
    The scraping on the underside of my engine cases has never caused me issue and are merely from too much hooning in the twisties, much of which likely occurred on my 8 rips of the Dragon.
     
  6. cootertwo

    cootertwoNitrous

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    Scarry stuff there. My hard tail low rider R3 sits VERY low. I will hit the sump on most speed humps, have to be VERY careful. Plus it's raked out 8 degrees on the forks, so it's still level, but will touch the sides of the frame easily on corners. Built mostly for the strip.
     
  7. 1olbull

    1olbullRiding Motor Since 1951

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    Very scary, Amigo! Be very careful! :inlove
    Do you remember Jesse James?
    He built this extreme chopper. When he took it out for its inaugural ride, his very first left turn onto the roadway the frame gouged into the pavement, dumped his ass off and he wore a cast on his broken leg for some time after . . . :rolleyes: :roll:
     
  8. cootertwo

    cootertwoNitrous

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    These big heavy Girls don't act like a crotch rocket when you scrape the frame. They just tend to want to throw you off. Kinda like they just all at once, plant their feet, and say "what's the hells goin on here?"
     
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  9. 1olbull

    1olbullRiding Motor Since 1951

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    Never will they handle like a sport bike, BUT they can be greatly improved into decent handlers. :thumbsup: :D
     
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