Flipmeister's Paddock Stand

[Pig9r]

Got to try out Flip's new paddock stand. I used it to wash the bike and later to change the oil and final drive oil. It is a very solid piece and I would say weighs at least 15 pounds.

Here is the stand. It came well packaged and with two pages of instructions that I did not read.



Here it is in place. You use a 1/2" breaker bar in the square opening to rotate the stand and bike. The breaker bar I have is 24" long. I didn't think I would be able to lift the bike with that length of a bar but was able to. Basically once you get the stand in place and start to rotate the stand, you can let go of the handlebars as the bike is stable. This allows you to put both hands on the breaker bar. I later put a piece of pipe over the breaker bar handle and it made it much easier to lift.



It doesn't lift the front wheel, but does the rear. Oil changes are a much easier too. No problems starting the bike while on the stand in order to check the oil level. This will get lots of use.






Flip is also working on some feet that also attach to the same lugs that allows you to slide a motorcycle jack under and safely lift the bike. They look to be top notch also.

One other note, according to Flip some of the newer model years have a smaller lug opening on the frame. The stand requires a 1/2" opening to fit the pins in. So if your lug opening is less than 1/2" you would need to drill it out to 1/2".

 

[Sidecar Flip]

Does anyone ever read instructions....?

It's typically overbuilt so you can increase the leverage with a pipe if you want to. Even my weak arse can do it with the breaker bar, no pipe involved, you just need to get over the fear that the bike will fall over...it won't. It's a bit disconcerting because as the bike index's on the cam plates, it assumes a vertical position, but it can't go anywhere, except up on the stand. The entire stand is fabricated from Hi-Strength alloy steel and the cam plates are laser cut. The Lift Aid Brackets (see below) are also manufactured from the same material.

Both the Lift Aid Brackets and the Paddock Stand are coated with Hi-Gloss epoxy enamel.

Front wheel maintenance is simply rocking the bike backward and sticking a wood block in front of the stand, against the sump plate. There is little pressure exerted on the sump plate unlike lifting the bike with the hydraulic floor jack, where all the weight of the bike bears against the plate.

The stand is designed for long term storage as well as maintenance. Once the bike is elevated, there is no weight (very little on the front suspension) do tires don't flat spot and the suspension is relaxed plus unlike other stands, there is nothing sticking out from under the bike to trip over. You remove the breaker bar and/or short extension and there is nothing to interfere with your work or trip over.

Removal is simply rolling the bike forward like taking it off a center stand and removal of the pins and keepers.

I've fiddled in the shop with the various lug hole dimensions (thanks to the poll) and I've found that the original 13mm (0.500) hole dimension is the safest as it allows for the maximum weight lift without bending the pins. I had my wife sit on my Classic and I lifted here and the bike (had to put on a length of pipe to overcome the additional weight..) but the beast came up with her on it.

I'll be offering a 1/2" (13mm) twist drill bit at my cost included with the stand for those that have later model bikes Touring included. You can easily drill out the smaller, late model lug hole to the required dimension to install and utilize the stand.

Because the stand engages on the upper half of the lug hole itself, enlarging the hole to the required dimension in no way compromises and structural integrity. Theoretically, you could remove the sub frame, drill the lug hole to the required dimension and then mill off the entire lower part of the lug below the centerline of the enlarged bore.

I've also supplied our coveted moderator with a set of Lift Aid Fixtures for those that have existing floor jacks. My brackets are double sided with the same removable pin arrangement that the Paddock Stand employs. I want to get away from the one sided foot arrangement and the radial stress those impart.

Again, you'll have to open the lug holes to the required dimension. That actually takes about a minute on each side.

The alloy pins that I'm using should carry about any load that you can impose (wives, luggage, kids, etc.)

Because I've only fabricated a couple prototype sets of Lift Aid Fixtures, I'm awaiting Pigger's input before offering them.

The Paddock Stands are in stock, the enlargement drills will be shortly. Soon as Pigger real world tests the Lift Aid Brackets and I can finalize the design, those will be available as well.

On a side note, the Paddock Stand can be adapted to any motorcycle without a center stand by simply changing the pin attachment to a suitable one for the particular model.

I'd like to buy one of each brand...Polaris, HD, Honda, Kawasaki.... but my wallet isn't that fat. Besides, 3 bikes are enough and yes, I've built one for my KLR as well.

 

[Kmutt]

Ya, I need this! So flip, I will be ordering one this week for the R3T. Plus I might get another Emgo since I decided to change my oil at 5000 instead of 10. BTW the black rock is awesome. I had an old set of chaps, put this stuff on and they look like new!!! LOL. Just bought a new Triumph Rocket III jacket on a huge discount so when that gets dirty im anxious to see it work its magic. Also used it on the seat this year and that turned out great as well.

mutt

 

[HeR3tic]

Does anyone ever read instructions....?

Awesome!!! Beautiful! I want one...yesterday! I follow directions quite well, thanks.

Just ordered,

 

[Sidecar Flip]

Ya, I need this! So flip, I will be ordering one this week for the R3T. Plus I might get another Emgo since I decided to change my oil at 5000 instead of 10. BTW the black rock is awesome. I had an old set of chaps, put this stuff on and they look like new!!! LOL. Just bought a new Triumph Rocket III jacket on a huge discount so when that gets dirty im anxious to see it work its magic. Also used it on the seat this year and that turned out great as well.

mutt

You'll have the too small hole problem. Sometimes, a small hole is better than a large one (in some cases) but not in this case.

You will either have to enlarge the existing hole to the 1/2" diameter (if you have a twist drill that size) or order one from me. They aren't on site yet but will be shortly. I'll offer the drill bits at cost to those who need them.

I've considered using Black Rock on my wife but after 30 years, I'm not at all sure it would do any good........

 

[rayjay]

Clean Bike

Pig9r..Just wanted to say congratulations on keeping your bike in that condition
It always please's me when i see a well looked after bike..well done my friend.
And that stand is a great idea isn'it

Ray

 

[9Ball]

that's a different version than mine. My stand has a fixed pin on one side. Wonder why the design was changed?

FLIP?

Got to try out Flip's new paddock stand. I used it to wash the bike and later to change the oil and final drive oil. It is a very solid piece and I would say weighs at least 15 pounds.

Here is the stand. It came well packaged and with two pages of instructions that I did not read.



Here it is in place. You use a 1/2" breaker bar in the square opening to rotate the stand and bike. The breaker bar I have is 24" long. I didn't think I would be able to lift the bike with that length of a bar but was able to. Basically once you get the stand in place and start to rotate the stand, you can let go of the handlebars as the bike is stable. This allows you to put both hands on the breaker bar. I later put a piece of pipe over the breaker bar handle and it made it much easier to lift.



It doesn't lift the front wheel, but does the rear. Oil changes are a much easier too. No problems starting the bike while on the stand in order to check the oil level. This will get lots of use.






Flip is also working on some feet that also attach to the same lugs that allows you to slide a motorcycle jack under and safely lift the bike. They look to be top notch also.

One other note, according to Flip some of the newer model years have a smaller lug opening on the frame. The stand requires a 1/2" opening to fit the pins in. So if your lug opening is less than 1/2" you would need to drill it out to 1/2".

 

[Sidecar Flip]

that's a different version than mine. My stand has a fixed pin on one side. Wonder why the design was changed?

FLIP?

John...

I changed the Paddock Stand simply to make it a bit easier to install. I'll be more than happy to refit any of the Paddock Stands I originally sold. It seemed to me to be easier to have 2 removable pins than one. It was about being convenient for the user.

If you or anyone else for that matter want the stand refitted to the Revision C design, contact me at sales@flipmeisters.com

Like all my Signature Products, I continually refine the designs. The Brakeline Clamps for instance, have gone through 4 revisions since I started machining them. While the revisions aren't as obvious as the second removable pin on the Paddock Stand, they have been incorporated. My mind never sleeps even though the rest of me does......

On another, different note, I have just changed the listing on the website to 2 different Paddock Stands. There is now an early model stand (inception to late 2007) that ships without the enlargement drill (to take the lug holes to 1/2" (13mm).

There is also a late model stand for late 2007 through present models including Touring, that ships with the required enlargement drill. I'm including the HSS drill at my cost which is $5.27 additional. That will allow you to enlarge the smaller dimension lug holes if you don't possess the drill in the first place. If you already have a 1/2" drill, then just order the early model Paddock Stand.

 

[flhtpi]

Does the stand lift the bike high enough to remove the rear wheel?

Thank you

 

[jaredmt]

I'll be ordering one today too, for the Roadster. Confirmed that the holes are 3/8" instead of 1/2". Outside dimension is 13" on this bike, just as an FYI.