Does anyone ever read instructions....?
It's typically overbuilt so you can increase the leverage with a pipe if you want to. Even my weak arse can do it with the breaker bar, no pipe involved, you just need to get over the fear that the bike will fall over...it won't. It's a bit disconcerting because as the bike index's on the cam plates, it assumes a vertical position, but it can't go anywhere, except up on the stand. The entire stand is fabricated from Hi-Strength alloy steel and the cam plates are laser cut. The Lift Aid Brackets (see below) are also manufactured from the same material.
Both the Lift Aid Brackets and the Paddock Stand are coated with Hi-Gloss epoxy enamel.
Front wheel maintenance is simply rocking the bike backward and sticking a wood block in front of the stand, against the sump plate. There is little pressure exerted on the sump plate unlike lifting the bike with the hydraulic floor jack, where all the weight of the bike bears against the plate.
The stand is designed for long term storage as well as maintenance. Once the bike is elevated, there is no weight (very little on the front suspension) do tires don't flat spot and the suspension is relaxed plus unlike other stands, there is nothing sticking out from under the bike to trip over. You remove the breaker bar and/or short extension and there is nothing to interfere with your work or trip over.
Removal is simply rolling the bike forward like taking it off a center stand and removal of the pins and keepers.
I've fiddled in the shop with the various lug hole dimensions (thanks to the poll) and I've found that the original 13mm (0.500) hole dimension is the safest as it allows for the maximum weight lift without bending the pins. I had my wife sit on my Classic and I lifted here and the bike (had to put on a length of pipe to overcome the additional weight..
) but the beast came up with her on it.
I'll be offering a 1/2" (13mm) twist drill bit at my cost included with the stand for those that have later model bikes Touring included. You can easily drill out the smaller, late model lug hole to the required dimension to install and utilize the stand.
Because the stand engages on the upper half of the lug hole itself, enlarging the hole to the required dimension in no way compromises and structural integrity. Theoretically, you could remove the sub frame, drill the lug hole to the required dimension and then mill off the entire lower part of the lug below the centerline of the enlarged bore.
I've also supplied our coveted moderator with a set of Lift Aid Fixtures for those that have existing floor jacks. My brackets are double sided with the same removable pin arrangement that the Paddock Stand employs. I want to get away from the one sided foot arrangement and the radial stress those impart.
Again, you'll have to open the lug holes to the required dimension. That actually takes about a minute on each side.
The alloy pins that I'm using should carry about any load that you can impose (wives, luggage, kids, etc.)
Because I've only fabricated a couple prototype sets of Lift Aid Fixtures, I'm awaiting Pigger's input before offering them.
The Paddock Stands are in stock, the enlargement drills will be shortly. Soon as Pigger real world tests the Lift Aid Brackets and I can finalize the design, those will be available as well.
On a side note, the Paddock Stand can be adapted to
any motorcycle without a center stand by simply changing the pin attachment to a suitable one for the particular model.
I'd like to buy one of each brand...Polaris, HD, Honda, Kawasaki.... but my wallet isn't that fat. Besides, 3 bikes are enough and yes, I've built one for my KLR as well.