try the 10% it will be more like grins and bigger grins also you Will need that extra 5% the 10% has to allow for the extra air getting in, doubt you will need any more but happy to add some more if You or Craig feel it needs it or feel you would like to try it for more Giggles :D
I tried the 10 percent. The popping went down a lot but is still there a little. What got killed was the mpg. Id not like to live with that lol. Imma try another I guess.
 
That would be right with some smoothing of the tables maybe all but it was some time ago.
In your opinion does that look like a usable map for the settup i described. What catches and stumps me a little about this tube is the L tables look so strange.
 
Here's a questions for anyone. I could post the dyno tune from using "read map" when I got my cable. If I posted that tune here would anyone be interested with editing it and sending back to me. Like I said it pops when decel and also idles rough and almost stalls out. Lmk
 
Here's a questions for anyone. I could post the dyno tune from using "read map" when I got my cable. If I posted that tune here would anyone be interested with editing it and sending back to me. Like I said it pops when decel and also idles rough and almost stalls out. Lmk
Feel like with my little knowledge I'm bound to mess it up. Also do my symptoms sound like I may need to adjust the tps and iscv like John and Martin discussed. Thanks
 
That would be right with some smoothing of the tables maybe all but it was some time ago.
Hi. The L tables are the table that runs off the manifold pressure as opposed to the F tables that are throttle position and revs. You'll see the FL switch also. To stop backfire more fuel is added when you close the throttle. Backfire is (mostly) caused by the motor being too lean, not combusting, then passing to the hot exhaust where it detonates. R3s run quite lean stock and pumping more air makes it much worse so more fuel is needed. Try it and if it behaves badly stop and reload your old tune. The TPS ICSV has a real good and easy tutorial somewhere on this site. If not I can upload when at computer next. Do not overtighten the TPS when adjusting.
 
Go Greggers option . Sorry just realized the bike last week didn't have headers just open mufflers and K&N's it backfired terribly. Did find this though careful on testing it as haven't been doing much of this lately and cannot recall how I have this one.
Hey I tried that viking map you sent and it was honestly I feel like the best one so far. Still an occasional bing pop/bang from exhaust. Runs pretty hot while not cruising. Any of those other viking maps in you saved files worth a try? Of so send em my way of gou don't mind. đź‘Ť
 
Just my opinion
You could have a number of a tune lets say for example it is tune # 12345
Now if 5 people goes in to that tune and changes the tables and the throttle openings then you have 5 different tunes with the same #12345
I don't remember how but you can go in there and look at the changes IF they have bothered to post then.
Now i have a tune in my bike (i used to have original till lighting strike) and when i changed it i gave it a new name like #23456 herman.
Just info that can be used or forgot about.
Hth
 
Hey I tried that viking map you sent and it was honestly I feel like the best one so far. Still an occasional bing pop/bang from exhaust. Runs pretty hot while not cruising. Any of those other viking maps in you saved files worth a try? Of so send em my way of gou don't mind. đź‘Ť
Will do. I am away from home at mo but will look at it. I did do a couple of further adjustments I think. However spent most of my time building a map for my bike which is earlier model. All based of @Tripps maps if I recall as they were the best ones.
 
Here's the dyno of my bike btw if anyone wants to take a peak and leave any suggestions. Like I said on this it was idling hard almost stalling out until warm and quite a bit of popping. Minus those two things it ran we though.
 

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