TTS Supercharger Kits

[ant]

Thank you for your reply.

What you are saying makes sense feeding in the top.I was also thinking about air pockets they should be reduced by filling from the top.
Could i please ask you,when the supercharger is running how fast does the oil flow though the system is there very much pressure.

I have just noticed from your photo that you still have the idle control unit fitted....

My instruction from TTS say the unit should be disconnected and removed,i have emailed Richard to ask if this is correct.

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

Do you have this manual for the Rotrex?

No pressure check that I'm aware of, just that oil is visibly flowing through canister and maintains the correct level at 2-3000rpm

Re the idle stepper motor, the TTS instructions were out of date 2.5 years ago when i got mine. You can leave the idle stepper in place.

 

[ant]

Do you have this manual for the Rotrex?

No pressure check that I'm aware of, just that oil is visibly flowing through canister and maintains the correct level at 2-3000rpm

Re the idle stepper motor, the TTS instructions were out of date 2.5 years ago when i got mine. You can leave the idle stepper in place.

Thanks again for your reply.Yes i do have the Rotrex manual it was in the box with the supercharger.

I only asked about the flow of the oil out of curiosity.Today i managed the fit the canister and oil hoses only to find that was not enough hose
supplied with the kit.

I think that TTS should update their fitting instructions asap,there are a few errors.

I thought it just didn't make any sense to disconnect and remove the idle unit,thanks for letting me know.

Did you have any major problems when you fitted the kit to your bike ?

 

[Joesmoe]

FWIW - a gas-fired, ammonia-hydrogen cycle refrigerator works that way -- the working fluid is heated by small flame in a vertical column, and at the top, the fluid is expanded, taking the most heat out of the freezer, and then routed down to the refrigerator section, where at the very bottom it is cycled back to the flame - continuous cycle, sealed system, no moving parts - hot stuff fed up top.

 

[ant]

Asking for help again please...

I have been trying to setup the clutch.I am think that there must be some clearance but i haven't got a clue how it should be set..

Could anyone that knows this system please give me some advise..

There is no information on fitting or adjusting the clutch on TTS installation guide

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

you should check the pressure seal on the slave cylinder, mine was pinched on assembly from the factory, they sent a replacement and it was pinched too so i just straightened it out myself (otherwise you'll be bleeding forever or at least losing fluid into the engine over time)

anyway with the clutch pullrod in the clutch, and the front engine cover on, then the clutch cover goes on so the pull rod sticks out through the slave cylinder.
then you put on the big roundy nut, thread it in by holding it stead with spanner and turning the pull rod with a big flathead scubadiver. make sure the flathead is a good full fit for the pull rod as the slot is easy chip/shear.
you just turn the scubadiver until it's good and finger tight.

i phoned up the time and was told a couple of mm free play (must check my notes), this is bull, there is no free play as the slave holds the pull rod steady and the bearing in the pressure plate lets the clutch turn around it. it's not like the stock lifter piece/pull rod which needs free play so the lifter shaft jaws aren't eating into your lifter piece/pullrod's head.

anyway some useful info - the slave only has about 1mm or so travel, so you don't have much to play with. thought this was a bit short, TTS said it should be a few mm, i did all the maths on master cylinder displacement etc and found 1mm or so is legit.
it will work ok but you need to be bang on with the adjustment.

you will feel the big jump in resistance when you hit the point. if you go further, you're beginning to lift the pressure plate and separate the clutch fibers & steels, which will result in clutch slip.
if you don't go far enough, you won't be able to get neutral and the bike will pull the bike forward when in gear with clutch pulled and heat up real quick and pull you off (that's what she said) before you can stop the beast.

better go a bit on the too far side - as the big roundy bull nose nut will bed into the slave cylinder and you will probably have to adjust it a few times later when riding.

once you are in this sweet spot, thread on the locknut and tighten it it (don't dog the clutch cover and slave cylinder with a cutdown spanner trying to hold the big bullnose nut - use your well fitted flathead to hold the pullrod steady and tighten the smaller lock nut)

i assume you are ok with the clutch line and bleeding etc. note i had to buy new line and fitting into the slave as they were crap fit.

the bullnose nut isn't the best fit for the slave (at least it wasn't on mine), so it will bed in over time and your adjustment will fade out - you will probably have to pop off the little slave cylinder cover a couple times as the nut beds in. after a couple of iterations it will settle down and you're done with it.

at this point i would highly recommend putting a drop of Loctite 243 medium strength threadlock on the small locknut, as you don't want it to come off and strand you...

and while we're at it, best put some of that threadlock on your crank spigot bearing housing 6no. M6 bolts too. like immediately if not sooner. i found those little buggers can vibrate out and spew oil all over your engine front/bottom and rear wheel & brake...........

hth

 

[ant]

I am having a problem with the line and fitting it weeps a little...perhaps i should look at replacing them.

I will check the slave cylinder seal...Thanks for the advice on the bearing cover bolts.

Looks like i will be on the phone again to TTS..

 

[Claviger]

@ant Been following since the beginning. Looking forward to vicariously enjoying your eventual success when it comes!

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

I am having a problem with the line and fitting it weeps a little...perhaps i should look at replacing them.

I will check the slave cylinder seal...Thanks for the advice on the bearing cover bolts.

Looks like i will be on the phone again to TTS..

yes mine wept too, i got a longer (black) line from Venhill so i could route the cable properly and not have to shortcut it like the grey TTS one makes you do. also changed out the fitting that connects line to the slave cylinder for one that doesn't leak;

TTS Hydraulic Clutch slave cylinder

• R-III-R Turbo
• Aug 31, 2018

fun times

 

[ant]

yes mine wept too, i got a longer (black) line from Venhill so i could route the cable properly and not have to shortcut it like the grey TTS one makes you do. also changed out the fitting that connects line to the slave cylinder for one that doesn't leak;

TTS Hydraulic Clutch slave cylinder

• R-III-R Turbo
• Aug 31, 2018

fun times

Thank you for this,i will get one ordered asap..

For a kit that cost 5k you would think that TTS would supply better quality parts.