The odyssey begins !

[rainman]

Stupid question...should this be done if you don't run dark side? The manual states that the drive shaft is maintenance free and only the bevel box fluid levels need to be maintained. I haven't removed the bevel box from the drive shaft to grease the splines. I grease the wheel driven flange with moly at every tire change but now I'm wondering if I need to do more? Or am I looking after things correctly?
Thanks

If u don't you may wind up with the same problem I had a few years ago where my final drive went out I had not greased the back end of the drive shaft I had bout 54000 miles on my r3t I have pix on here somewhere on what it looked like so it would be wise to grease it all at every tire change

 

[Dawg68]

Thanks fellas

 

[Dawg68]

Is it a difficult process to remove the drive shaft and re install? Is there anything I need to watch for? The manual seems pretty straight forward.

 

[Rocket Scientist]

Is it a difficult process to remove the drive shaft and re install? Is there anything I need to watch for? The manual seems pretty straight forward.

There is really no need to remove the drive shaft. You have to remove the entire swing arm to get it out. The splines up by the engine don't seem to wear like the ones at the back. Just remove the bevel box and using your finger coat the outside of the drive shaft spline (which is up inside the swing arm tube). Then do the same on the inside of the final drive spline. Much like KY jelly, when you think you have way to much, you have almost enough .

P.S. don't lose the little spring that goes between the drive shaft and the bevel box. To re-install the bevel bevel box, I push it into the swing arm tube with the drive shaft still laying on the bottom. Move it around in a circular motion and it will eventually find it's way in. Leave the bevel box mounting bolts finger tight until the rear axle is installed and tightened. Then tighten them the rest of the way. This makes sure the bevel box is square to the wheel and not putting a bind on the rear wheel bearings.

 

[1olbull]

Stupid question...should this be done if you don't run dark side? The manual states that the drive shaft is maintenance free and only the bevel box fluid levels need to be maintained. I haven't removed the bevel box from the drive shaft to grease the splines. I grease the wheel driven flange with moly at every tire change but now I'm wondering if I need to do more? Or am I looking after things correctly?
Thanks

NOT a stupid question at all!
The answer is a resounding YES!
Moly lube both ends at least every tire change!

There is really no need to remove the drive shaft. You have to remove the entire swing arm to get it out. The splines up by the engine don't seem to wear like the ones at the back. Just remove the bevel box and using your finger coat the outside of the drive shaft spline (which is up inside the swing arm tube). Then do the same on the inside of the final drive spline. Much like KY jelly, when you think you have way to much, you have almost enough .

P.S. don't lose the little spring that goes between the drive shaft and the bevel box. To re-install the bevel bevel box, I push it into the swing arm tube with the drive shaft still laying on the bottom. Move it around in a circular motion and it will eventually find it's way in. Leave the bevel box mounting bolts finger tight until the rear axle is installed and tightened. Then tighten them the rest of the way. This makes sure the bevel box is square to the wheel and not putting a bind on the rear wheel bearings.

That tightening sequence is a very good point, IMHO!
I hadn't been doing it until I first read it from you!

 

[Rocket Scientist]

NOT a stupid question at all!
The answer is a resounding YES!
Moly lube both ends at least every tire change!


That tightening sequence is a very good point, IMHO!
I hadn't been doing it until I first read it from you!

Someone on here told me about it. I wasn't doing correctly either.

 

[Dawg68]

There is really no need to remove the drive shaft. You have to remove the entire swing arm to get it out. The splines up by the engine don't seem to wear like the ones at the back. Just remove the bevel box and using your finger coat the outside of the drive shaft spline (which is up inside the swing arm tube). Then do the same on the inside of the final drive spline. Much like KY jelly, when you think you have way to much, you have almost enough .

P.S. don't lose the little spring that goes between the drive shaft and the bevel box. To re-install the bevel bevel box, I push it into the swing arm tube with the drive shaft still laying on the bottom. Move it around in a circular motion and it will eventually find it's way in. Leave the bevel box mounting bolts finger tight until the rear axle is installed and tightened. Then tighten them the rest of the way. This makes sure the bevel box is square to the wheel and not putting a bind on the rear wheel bearings.

I greatly appreciate the way you wrote that. Perfect explanation thanks. I am pulling my rear wheel tomorow to replace my tire and I will use the Molly 60 to lube the spline. Thanks again for the info.

 

[barbagris]

How much you apply depends very much on what lube you use. There is no point whatsoever in over filling with a DRY-TYPE lube. In fact if it's moly based you're inviting corrosion. Just enough so it sort of oozes out of the spline area.

I still believe that a god ONE-SHOT grease would be better - in fact when we last did the R3 - it was full of Helicopter grade (Eurocopter supplied) rotor bearing grease.

 

[warp9.9]

Moly 60 is some good stuff that most everyone can pick up at a Honda dealer. Myself I used Moly60 every time I change the tire until I lucked out and got a tub of MolyKote from a friend who worked in the Aerospace field. I must say I do add a little extra into the bottom cup of the final drive besides just painting the splines. Very few pieces of equipment ever die of over lubrication!!!!

Or as Nev might say good lubrication is a lot less expensive then good motorcycle parts!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[mully95]

Dawg68.... I have a 2010 model Roadster with 22k miles on it. I've had motorcycle tires plus a dark side tire on it and have abused the bike numerous times. I have never lubed the splines only the gear teeth in the bevel box like you have mentioned that you do. There was a member here that took his bevel box loose on his 2010 Roadster and discovered that it was coated with a blue colored "grease" in which I believe Triumph has "upgraded" to this type grease for the purpose of longevity purposes. Not saying it's a waste of time checking the splines but you will most likely find that yours is already coated more than enough with grease. Another thing to take in consideration is that the Roadster shaft was increased in size to handle the extra HP and TQ. This might help on the splines not getting striped but don't know for sure. Anyways I will keep on doing what I've been doing until the maintenance schedule says I need to lube the splines. If I have a failure I will let you know as well as everyone else here.
Flame suit on.