Switched running power

[sonny]

I like the sound the motor makes especially with the RAMAIR and soon to be Viking complete exhaust system. Better than LED ZEPPELIN.

 

[Old N' Grumpy]

Yea, I didn't want it to look like a subwoofer. Eventually I'll add a Indian Trunk (like the roadmaster has) with the speakers swapped with 2 DD audio 6.5" Subwoofers.

Guess I'm behind the times with bike stereo. All the ones I have ever seen have a couple speakers upfront somewhere. You my friend are very creative with the sub. I'm sure it pounds!

 

[Anomaly]

Guess I'm behind the times with bike stereo. All the ones I have ever seen have a couple speakers upfront somewhere. You my friend are very creative with the sub. I'm sure it pounds!

Speaker pods are on the engine guard. I had them chromed so they blend better. If you missed them in the picture, I am flattered.

 

[sonny]

I saw them. What a system.

 

[DEcosse]

There is no Power Source that is only 'live' when the engine is running;
You have constant power sources or ignition powered sources.

take a relay and hook up the ground side of the relay apply to the wire going to the oil sending switch so when the oil switch grounds it will apply relay.

This is creative idea - unfortunately the logic is inverted, the Oil Switch is 'closed' when there is NO pressure (i.e. when engine is NOT running) and open when there IS pressure.

But along those lines, if you had the Coil Negative (85) indeed to the Oil P switch, then ignition-switched Power to the Coil Positive (86) AND to the common 30, then the normally closed contact (87a) to the device, that would probably do it.
The Truth Table would be as follows
Ignition Off - Relay is off, so no power consumption by relay coil with key-off - and no power out
Ignition on (engine not running) - Relay energizes, but 'output' would be to the N/O contact=> no power out
Ignition on (engine running) - Relay turns off, you get output from the N/C contact

You would need to be sure you pick an ignition supply that has adequate power capability (and there probably isn't one) so that means an additional relay.

The downside of this this (above) is that it is going to come on pretty much as soon as the bike is started (indeed it could possibly even come on while it's cranking)

There are other more sophisticated ways to do it, but this should be within capability of most
Alternatives would be electronic comparator circuit or using the stator output to enable a trigger

Here's another way you could do it - I designed this initially as a delay circuit for turning on headlights;
This would equally work for your amp, it only turns on after you operate the brake the first time

(Again you need a switched input so probably need a second relay to supply that in place of the "headlight Power" input)

 

[sonny]

YOU are one smart Cookie. Hats off to you.

 

[DEcosse]

The other simpler way to go, with just a single relay is a time delay relay that is enabled off an ignition-source to the coil, with say 10 sec delay to kick on - the common would then come directly from battery.
So it would not be anything to do with starting, just sufficiently delayed after ignition on until is enabled, allowing time to start bike and have it running

 

[Anomaly]

The other simpler way to go, with just a single relay is a time delay relay that is enabled off an ignition-source to the coil, with say 10 sec delay to kick on - the common would then come directly from battery.
So it would not be anything to do with starting, just sufficiently delayed after ignition on until is enabled, allowing time to start bike and have it running

Yea, that is what I was tentatively planning on. I was just hoping there was a way where I could run my stereo system without the sub, and the bike not running. I have a switch inline for the sub's remote wire so I can stop the remote line from powering on the sub amp. I was simply looking for a more automatic solution that isn't just a time-delay or manual switching.

 

[idk]

How about tapping the headlights to power a relay? As the headlights turn off when the starter button is pressed, your sub would also turn off at the same time.

 

[barbagris]

@DEcosse - What about using a SPLIT BATTERY CHARGE relay to only activate the power relay once the bike is charging! - I know a similar solution is used on some new bikes.

I tried this with the headlights and it worked - I just had vibration issues with the (admittedly very cheap) split charging device. The wire clamps on the circuit boards kept loosening.