I have the Tor's I really wasn't thinking of money just something different I was just thinking if I buy another Tor exhaust and buy the silencer up grade and I pay some one to hook all four exhaust into the silencer up grade and had him make a braket and adjust all the pipes evenly would it work? Or would I be waisting my money because the silencer upgrade should not be fabucated with another pipe? and will not work properly? I was even thinking if I came accross a cheeper pair of Jardine exhaust that got damaged and use the Jardine header .I'm just wondering if this idea would work or will I be waisting my money? I don't care if it cost more then just buying the Jardines just haveing something diferent and that will fuction and sound good .

My suggestion is buy the cat bypass and Tuneboy and you'll have great sounding mufflers and a good custom tune for them from Tuneboy.
 
Tor'gs

Six on each side I think is a little to much .I just have a thing about haveing two exhaust on one side or on one each side. So I kepping my eyes out for a good price for Jardines or finding some damaged jardines and just use the headers and if any one has some damaged Jardines or is selling some for a good price please let me know. Thanks you guys I just have a few ideas and just want to know if they would work. The guys at my dealer said that all the pipes and all the connections should be all the same leangth so all three cilenders will all breath the same ? Or did I understand wrong is it only inportant that the pipes comming out of the headers comming down to connect to the pipes should measure the same leangth? So each cylinder can breath the same?
 
Well, the Honda transverse six looks nice with six silencers.......

Header engineering is complicated. There are many factors that have to be taken into account. You just can't bend up some tubing to make it look aesthetically pleasing simply because you'll probably loose quite a bit of efficiency. Header engineering takes into account exhaust pulse, firing order, gas flow and relative tubing size as well as back pressure and a number of other things. Headers have to be engineered to scavenge the exhaust properly while allowing each cylinder to receive a fresh charge at the same time not pulling any of that charge out because the pulse flow of the spent gases is pulling the fresh charge from the cylinder before the valves close (as in valve overlap). That's why tuners spend a great deal of time on a dyno perfecting the tube length as well as how the headers are bent and I've just scratched the surface......
 
Tor's

Thanks you guys that was good information. And Flip that's great infromation about the headers but if I use Jardine headers or the same headers on the Rocket and I do put another Tor's on the other side is it just inportant how the four exhaust are connected up to the header? Or as long as I get a pipe bender and weld all four pipe together with the header? Or is it more complicated then that ? I know the Jardines have just one pipes that connects to each pipes . So would it be the same way but makeing a pipe that splits two pipes into one on each side and both feeding into one pipe on the botton or what? I just thought the easyest way is to buy the silencer up grade because that all ready has a fitting for three pipes and just bring it to a pipe bender and have him make another bracket for the fourth pipe and connect another pipe to the fourth pipe and make another hole in the silencer up grade and connect the fourth pipe into it? But it does't sound like that would work? I thought doing that would give me more of a deeper sound like they say it does useing the three pipes? Why won't it work connecting the fourth pipe into the silencer up grade?
 
On the OEM bypass, I don't think there's enough usable room to add another hole for a 4th pipe, I'll have to look at mine again. There may be...

I think you'd be better off fabricating your own bypass with 4 outlets but that's going to drastically change your flow so you'll need some dyno time and a tuneboy/pcIII to get it right.

This article NSX Primeis geared toward the car crowd but exhaust theory (dynamics) should apply across the board.
 
Thanks you guys that was good information. And Flip that's great infromation about the headers but if I use Jardine headers or the same headers on the Rocket and I do put another Tor's on the other side is it just inportant how the four exhaust are connected up to the header? Or as long as I get a pipe bender and weld all four pipe together with the header? Or is it more complicated then that ? I know the Jardines have just one pipes that connects to each pipes . So would it be the same way but makeing a pipe that splits two pipes into one on each side and both feeding into one pipe on the botton or what? I just thought the easyest way is to buy the silencer up grade because that all ready has a fitting for three pipes and just bring it to a pipe bender and have him make another bracket for the fourth pipe and connect another pipe to the fourth pipe and make another hole in the silencer up grade and connect the fourth pipe into it? But it does't sound like that would work? I thought doing that would give me more of a deeper sound like they say it does useing the three pipes? Why won't it work connecting the fourth pipe into the silencer up grade?

The Jardines have a deep, resonant, loud sound - at least the original version did - and there is one muffler on each side.
 
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Raising Cane........

CC:

When you do exhaust headers on any relatively high performance engine, you don't just do the muffler shop bend dance. You need a bender that maintains a constant diameter throughout the entire radii of the bend. If you don't use a constant radius bender, the actual diameter of the pipe as far as gas flow will be the smallest inside diameter and that will occur in the tightest radii. Consequently, your choice of benders is severely limited. To fabricate a high performance header and do it right, you need DOM (Drawn over mandrel tubing) with a relatively low Rockwell and stable chemistry and access to a good quality inserted mandrel bender like a Baliegh plus a good working knowledge of geometry and thermal dynamics and you'll still put a lot of prototypes in the scrap bin. Just message Travelguy on this forum or on .com. He's knows all about the header game.

The stock 'header' on the R3 isn't a header at all. It's a tubular, thin wall medium quality stainless manifold much like the cast one on your car except this one is on a bike and it's not cast because of aesthetics but it might as well be. There is about zilch in efficiency concerning exhaust gas scavenging with three cylinders feeding a like diameter trunk pipe feeding a mass of plumbing underneath terminating in three mufflers with more baffles inside than there are Arabs in Dearborn.

My take on all this is simply that if I wanted to gain additional horsepower and torque as well as a more pleasing sound (I don't, I like the motorboat sound), I would get a set of Jardines or Staintunes or some other aftermarket setup where you actually get a set of (engineered headers). Whomever made them did the dirty work and the engineering and you pay for that but believe me, it don't come cheap. To give you some idea about equipment, a Baliegh Mandrel bender with a limited set of mandrels and forming rolls with basic Numerical Controls will set you back around 150K and you still have to have the knowledge to run the machine and produce correct parts.

It gives a great amount of personal satisfaction to engineer a product such as an exhaust system but you have to be prepared for a large amount of disappointment and frustration before you attain a workable result.

If I told you how many of the Flipmeister clamps went in the scrap bin as I sorted out different problems with them you'd probably not believe me. From concept to reality to a viable product at a competitive price while still making any profit at all is a fine art.
 
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