I had a 74 750cc Suzuki (Waterbuffalo) 3 cyl. water cooled 2 stroke, it had a 3 into 4 configuration with 2 lower pipes one on either side were larger, each had a smaller pipe above for the odd cylinder. I looked like the 750 honda's from the rear. Only a few were lucky enough to get a look.:D
 
I had a 74 750cc Suzuki (Waterbuffalo) 3 cyl. water cooled 2 stroke, it had a 3 into 4 configuration with 2 lower pipes one on either side were larger, each had a smaller pipe above for the odd cylinder. I looked like the 750 honda's from the rear. Only a few were lucky enough to get a look.:D

I should have run into you when I had my H1 Kawasaki 750 triple. The only thing you would have seen was my tail light and the only thing you would have smelled was my Klotz injector lube.:D That sucker was fast and handled like a fat lady with big boobs.:(
 
I could dust the stock 750 Honda's up to about 100. (waterbuffalo topped out about 112) but put a pipe on the Honda it was good by Suzuki. The kow probabaly would probably kick may a$$. the mach 111, 500cc was about a even race.
 
CC:

When you do exhaust headers on any relatively high performance engine, you don't just do the muffler shop bend dance. You need a bender that maintains a constant diameter throughout the entire radii of the bend. If you don't use a constant radius bender, the actual diameter of the pipe as far as gas flow will be the smallest inside diameter and that will occur in the tightest radii. Consequently, your choice of benders is severely limited. To fabricate a high performance header and do it right, you need DOM (Drawn over mandrel tubing) with a relatively low Rockwell and stable chemistry and access to a good quality inserted mandrel bender like a Baliegh plus a good working knowledge of geometry and thermal dynamics and you'll still put a lot of prototypes in the scrap bin. Just message Travelguy on this forum or on .com. He's knows all about the header game.

The stock 'header' on the R3 isn't a header at all. It's a tubular, thin wall medium quality stainless manifold much like the cast one on your car except this one is on a bike and it's not cast because of aesthetics but it might as well be. There is about zilch in efficiency concerning exhaust gas scavenging with three cylinders feeding a like diameter trunk pipe feeding a mass of plumbing underneath terminating in three mufflers with more baffles inside than there are Arabs in Dearborn.

My take on all this is simply that if I wanted to gain additional horsepower and torque as well as a more pleasing sound (I don't, I like the motorboat sound), I would get a set of Jardines or Staintunes or some other aftermarket setup where you actually get a set of (engineered headers). Whomever made them did the dirty work and the engineering and you pay for that but believe me, it don't come cheap. To give you some idea about equipment, a Baliegh Mandrel bender with a limited set of mandrels and forming rolls with basic Numerical Controls will set you back around 150K and you still have to have the knowledge to run the machine and produce correct parts.

It gives a great amount of personal satisfaction to engineer a product such as an exhaust system but you have to be prepared for a large amount of disappointment and frustration before you attain a workable result.

If I told you how many of the Flipmeister clamps went in the scrap bin as I sorted out different problems with them you'd probably not believe me. From concept to reality to a viable product at a competitive price while still making any profit at all is a fine art.

How does OCC do it?
 
Flip

I should have run into you when I had my H1 Kawasaki 750 triple. The only thing you would have seen was my tail light and the only thing you would have smelled was my Klotz injector lube.:D That sucker was fast and handled like a fat lady with big boobs.:(

Ah excuse me Flipper, remember this site has the most correct info. ..The H1 was a 500CC scooter. The H2 was a 750CC scooter..Were wound up tonight aren't we...
 
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Exhaust

You guys been great on article to read and great information and a lot more complicated then I thought . So here's something for you guys if I had the Jardine headers or Travelguys headers and bought M4 or scorpion or Arata or Yoshimura or any of these hight performance slip ons for sport bikes that run for $ 350 - $700 a peace there made for performance. What would that set up be like with a tuneboy ?
 
You guys been great on article to read and great information and a lot more complicated then I thought . So here's something for you guys if I had the Jardine headers or Travelguys headers and bought M4 or scorpion or Arata or Yoshimura or any of these hight performance slip ons for sport bikes that run for $ 350 - $700 a peace there made for performance. What would that set up be like with a tuneboy ?

You would need to find a dyno tuner to map the fuel with Tuneboy. Most DynoJet tuners are not willing - it takes too much time to learn - and $$$ from you.
 
exhaust

I just want something different that no was has yet and it sounds like ehaust systems and headers there a lot involved on makeing them then I thought . So I figure if a bought a high performanc exhaust system for a sports bike that they spent so much money in designing and I bought a pair of Jardines that the exhaust got all scratched up and cut them off and put a pair of these high performanc exhaust systems and got a tunboy and had my dealer tune it just like they do with all the other bikes . Won't I have the best of both worlds? I don't mind spending more to have something different and with good headers and nice pipes and the tuneboy to ajust . What's the invention there? why wouldn't it work?
 
You could stick a garden hose in your headers and it'll work. You can make just about anything work, Campbells Soup can, Folgers if you want to go that route...


There is no reason why anything you've proposed WON'T work. With enough money, you can do pretty much whatever you want.

Now, you mention the best of both worlds combo here, what is the best about the Jar headers? What makes the Yoshi pipes the best? Or any of them for that matter.

I'm pretty sure the Jar header was engineered (at least I hope there was some engineering involved) to work with the Jar pipes.

The Yoshi pipes are slip ons usually designed to work with the stock headers.

I don't think a Yoshi pipe is going to look or sound right on the R3. But, that's just my opinion. From an engineering side, sure, you can stick one on there.

If you really want to do something that would probably look and sound good, get some Vance & Hines pipes on there since you were considering fabricating a header anyway...
 
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