Rocket Clutch Cable Install

1olbull

Riding Motor Since 1950
Joined
Jun 17, 2012
Messages
23,809
Location
Tacoma, WA
Ride
2012 R3R "Kong" - 2011 R3R "YurMama"
This is done so seldom one usually forgets how and has to reinvent the wheel.
After several bar changes, I have bit the bullet and changed out my bars to a set that required lengthening all my wiring and the control cables.

This long-ass adventure has involved many iterations of routing, connecting, removing, reconnecting both of the throttle cables and the clutch cable before I finally arrived at my sweet spot. I reckon now that I have finally got this stuff straight!

Just FYI - I thought it may be helpful to offer others what I have found to be the best Clutch Cable install scenario.


If folks find this helpful, I shall also do one on the throttle cables.
 
Yup...pretty much the way I did mine and will have to do it "again" in a day or two. Went with a plus 2 1/2" extra length this time for the Rivco Risers. The plus
1 1/2" was tight. I'll have to return it for repair as they failed to put the hard plastic bushing on one of the ferrules

I believe the Barnett cables are not metric. It seems as though I found the fittings were 5/16" on the adjuster and 7/16" on the nuts. I remember thinking I might have to add those to my tool bag. 13mm would work in a pinch.

One more thing...It was suggested in a post to remove the side shroud and screen. Good tip! I have noticed on my rockets that the shroud screws like to loosen up over time. I decided to put an ever so small amount of locktight blue on them. I didn't get to aggresive with that because the fittings are fastened to the radiator. You might keep a eye on those screws.
 
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You are correct.
I know the push cable bar end bolt is 5/8" SAE.

I also extended my brake line, which is now 3/8 x 24 thread.
 
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Please post how the 2 1/2 works
 
Not Bad I never tried it that way I usually remove the bracket off the clutch cover. but now that I think about it I have never changed one that had the crash bars only with blower kit both with and without inner-cooler.
 
 
Me reckons those to be cobby looking and the addition of just more possibilities for leaks or blockages.
The new brake line connector at the OEM joint under the tank provides a simple, clean and unobstructed brake line replacement.
 
Jag said:
Please post how the 2 1/2 works
Click to expand...

I just realized I took pictures and never posted this. Hopefully this helps people decide. 2" might be the magic number for me.

BTW...From a previous comment I made...I never returned the cable for repair. They told me since they switched the cable end piece to stainless steel the plastic ferrule was not needed anymore and they were not putting it on.
 

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I'd have to say that looks pretty good. And I agree 2 would probably work. But the the 1.5 worked on Pauls Touring though a wee bit more dificult to mess with. Its just my opinion but I think the 2.5 is what I would choose.
 
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