Rivco Heel/Toe shifter issues


Aug 23, 2006
Northwest, MO.
2005 Rocket III
Anyone figure out how to keep the Rivco heel/toe shifter from hitting the footrest bar on the "heel" end? There is so much slop on the shoulder bolt and the lever is so close to the bar. I guess I'll need to find a backing washer to add behind everything (provided spacer, wavy washer, etc) to move the whole contraption out away from the bar "AND" tighten it up to eliminate all that slop. I also noticed the "toe" shifter is square to the lever length itself (sticks straight out the side). The stock shifter is designed to "cant" the toe shifter at an angle to match the stock foot peg angle (they are somewhat parallel), just like the foot brake pad is made parallel to the right side foot peg. The Rivco shifter offers lots of adjustment but the basic application is not too well thought out. :mad:

I'll need to figure out how to bend the toe part of the shifter to give it a more appealing angle. :confused: Would most likely effect the chrome finish though.

I've got another "Rivco" attitude, just like the one the Rivco Risers gave me.

Anyone else experience some level of dissatisfaction with the heel/toe shifter application?
Work better with boards


I found that the heel-toe shifter did not work well with pegs but works much better with the boards. I posted some pics of before and after. I used both of the wavy washers and the fit is pretty good.

I have the rivco rear passenger boards and the forward mount arm for them and the left side cannot be tightened enough to hold it in a position parrallel to the pipes and surounding lines. The right side can be tightened in place (as weight is put on the board it forces the bolt to tighten,) obversley weight on the board tends to loosen the board on the left. and all the time the most weight is exerted on the left as the passenger climbs on. The finish is fine, they need to work on the fit. :mad:
There is an easy fix. Drill and tap the mount with a left hand tap and apply a left hand capscrew. It don't have to be ISO, it can be SAE so long as the tap drill matches the major diameter of the existing threads. Basic rule of thumb is 75% thread is acceptable. Tell me which bolt it is and I'll tell you what the SAE or metric equivalent will be. You can then buy a LH tap (I'll tell you where to get that too) and any fastener place will have the LH capscrew.