I installed relays on my '13 Roadster. Lights got brighter but not sufficiently so. Currently installing twin Speaker 8630 LED's
Yeah I have set on the way Also ....cant wait, my original lights have started to develop blisters under the reflector surface.... dam shame... gave me the excuse to get some real serious light:rolleyes:
 
2011 Tourer and switch just failed - we are actually having a bit of a summer here in the UK and hacked off does not get close to explaining how I feel at present!

K

In theory the single light on the Tourer shouldn't give any problem because half the headlamp current of the twin headlight Rockets. But if your avatar is a picture of your bike its got some hefty driving lights on, if they run through your switch it will bring the current in line with the standard models.

Might be wise to think about a switch bypass. Its easy to do with a kit from Hanso or make one of your own.
 
There was a recall on 2010 models ( think it was the 2010 models) and I assume that is now how the newer ones are done,it involves 1 relay before the ingnition switch and it does relieve the issue to the ignition switch but it just shifts the problem to the dipper switch which while no one has fried one YET I'm sure it will happen given time

I have the EB mod on my bike but never considered the load on the dipper switch. No problem in two years of riding but now am paranoid. Hanso, any ideas about how to modify the dipper for extra load? Do you not believe that the dipper switch was made to take the full load or do you believe Triumph is dumb enough to engineer the dipper switch to only handle the reduced current produced by travelling through the ignition switch?
Thanks
 
I have the EB mod on my bike but never considered the load on the dipper switch. No problem in two years of riding but now am paranoid. Hanso, any ideas about how to modify the dipper for extra load? Do you not believe that the dipper switch was made to take the full load or do you believe Triumph is dumb enough to engineer the dipper switch to only handle the reduced current produced by travelling through the ignition switch?
Thanks
if you have the Eastern Beaver relay kit you have nothing to worry about it is the Triumph solution I would be suss about, if you have the triumph solution you can still get the EB kit as it does not sent the heavy current thru the dipper
 
I installed relays on my '13 Roadster. Lights got brighter but not sufficiently so. Currently installing twin Speaker 8630 LED's

When you grt the 8630 on your bike let us know what it looks like.
How it fits is it brighter
 
In theory the single light on the Tourer shouldn't give any problem because half the headlamp current of the twin headlight Rockets. But if your avatar is a picture of your bike its got some hefty driving lights on, if they run through your switch it will bring the current in line with the standard models.

Might be wise to think about a switch bypass. Its easy to do with a kit from Hanso or make one of your own.

I know this is an old thread but most of us probably get most of our help from old threads. I have a 2011 R3T and the white ignition wire melted. I have driving lights.
 
... I have a 2011 R3T and the white ignition wire melted. I have driving lights.

Is this ANOTHER Failure or are you re-iterating the one you had recently?
Have to point out that was NOT a true key-switch failure (as per happens with the Twin Headlight Std's) but a bad connector socket - that is not a common failure (although it's not completely isolated either)

The 'Driving lights' option with Factory Wiring does NOT pull current through the Key-Switch.

My opinion is that a Bypass Relay kit should not be 'necessary' on 'T' model;
However if anyone DOES want it, it can be done much more simply with a single relay and minimal wiring than a full blown dual relay kit.

Headlight_Relay_Touring_change.jpg
 
I installed the EB kit on my 14 Touring. I purchased the one with a Headlight on/off switch and also the wire for the driving lights. I do believe the headlight is brighter but think it was a waste buying the driving light option. I like being able to turn off the headlight (great when using TuneECU or starting the bike in the colder weather.
 
Is this ANOTHER Failure or are you re-iterating the one you had recently?
Have to point out that was NOT a true key-switch failure (as per happens with the Twin Headlight Std's) but a bad connector socket - that is not a common failure (although it's not completely isolated either)

The 'Driving lights' option with Factory Wiring does NOT pull current through the Key-Switch.

My opinion is that a Bypass Relay kit should not be 'necessary' on 'T' model;
However if anyone DOES want it, it can be done much more simply with a single relay and minimal wiring than a full blown dual relay kit.

Headlight_Relay_Touring_change.jpg

I'm happy to say I'm referring to the old problem, which you solved for me. Thanks, again!
 
I'm happy to say I'm referring to the old problem...
OK - so not really 'fair' to equate this with the the 'traditional' type of switch failure the std's exhibit and your post kinda reads like it is same, unless you know the intimate details :D
 
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