R3T Eastern Beaver mod

[cusso ken]

Since reading numerous reports of headlight current destroying the ignition switch I am a bit paranoid about using Hi beam on my 2011 Touring ,I have read that the factory option twin driving light do not place load on the switch so I use them as Hi beam and never use the single headlight Hi Beam, am I correct or just being too careful, Wiring is not one of my best skill so I have not been game enough to try the Bi Pass myself
I will get Hanso's opinion when I catch up with him in October ,anyhow I rarely ride at night these days so its not so urgent,

 

[DEcosse]

The driving lights do NOT come through the Key-Switch
The difference between Hi Beam and Low beam on your T is less than half an amp!
So happily use your Hi Beam, it will make negligible difference

 

[cusso ken]

Thanks for the info , Always good to know these things

 

[Mick TOMCC]

Ok heres a question.
Any one out there that has a 2010 or later Rocket that has NOT done the headlight relay modification had any problems with the ignition?
I am concerned that maybe I should get the Eastern Beaver relay set up but I am not seeing that anyone with a 2010 or later is having any problems.
Why buy it if I do not need it?
Did Triumph fix this?

My Roadster is 2010 plated and to this point I have had no issues with the ignition and thats 70k covered.

 

[dobro]

OK - so not really 'fair' to equate this with the the 'traditional' type of switch failure the std's exhibit and your post kinda reads like it is same, unless you know the intimate details

DEcosse, I don't dispute your opinion that my problem was not a true switch failure but I'd like to know your reasoning (to put my mind at ease about future "white wire" failures on my bike). My VIN number, though a 2011 bike, was not within those listed on this forum as being the group that Triumph had fixed.

 

[DEcosse]

The failure in the std's is caused by the higher current of the dual headlights causing a power dissipation (as heat) at the switch contact-plate that ultimately melts the solder holding the wire to the contact and it pops out of the hole
Yours was a bad connection at the harness connector (& on main harness side, not even the switch side) caused by a mechanically spread terminal, nothing to do with a current-related mechanism

 

[cr0ft]

I got the EB kit for my 2010 - it's very easy to install and not even expensive to buy, just seemed like a sensible thing to do.

And then I replaced literally everything on my bike that makes light with LED's (front, back, indicators, even the license plate light) which draw a fraction of the amperage of the incandescents anyway, so I didn't really need the EB kit... but, still nice it's there, good to know things are "done right".

 

[AnthonyD]

Good Morning! - Bringing back an OLD thread because I have a SILLY NEWBIE question, please forgive me.

I want to execute the most excellent DEcosse modification of adding an extra relay and wiring per the provided diagram (thank you, Good Sir!)

Now, the silly newbie question: Where is this relay?

The manual shows it as sort of a disembodied "this is part of the system":

And also indicated it's existence (I think) with this #2:

Side cover pulled I see this:

Can someone point me in the direction of this relay so I don't start taking things apart I don't need to?

As always, any guidance is greatly appreciated

 

[barbagris]

Calling the mighty @DEcosse

If you're planning on adding accessories in the future - consider a PDM60 based solution. I leave teh stage to his electronic-nes.

 

[AnthonyD]

Calling the mighty @DEcosse

If you're planning on adding accessories in the future - consider a PDM60 based solution. I leave teh stage to his electronic-nes.

I will certainly add an accessories fuse block at some point! On the Roadliner I used this one:

Looks like EB makes a decent one, and this PDM60 unit requires some investigation, too!

Right now, I'm just trying to do this mod:

and physically locate the darn relay!