Lash caps after cam mod

The reason I asked about valve springs is because the stock springs have approx 50lbs on the seat. The inlet valve has approx 1.5 sq in area. So if you have 10lb boost, you're taking 15lbs OFF the springs, which are already weak. Trying to help you avoid a f__k up, not trying to rain on your parade.
 
I don't have the info asked.

However:
1.How can problems with the valvetrain happen in an engine that ran petfectly with excellent compression values prior to removing the cams, and that hasn't been turned over once yet?
Try not to get frustrated.

This is also difficult for us trying to diagnose a problem in a one-dimension medium of the Internet.

How did your engine run before? Answer= Your Engine timing is Not-Static. Your Valvetrain Geometry is Static.

Its has an ECU that adjusts your timing on the fly. But your Valvetrain has to be ;

1) Within OEM Spec(or in the case of a Custom Camshaft with Builder's Spec anmd required other Mods;
2) Valvetrain has to be installed per OEM proceedures.

Here's the unknown; (Note: Most of us have done this before or have seen this before).

1) Missed a tooth (alignment marks off one increment) during re-installation of the Camshaft, Gears, Chain/Drive.
2) Installed the off-set Cam Key backwards when desired result was to advance/retard the cam timing.

This is why you ALWAYS follow OEM/Cam Makers installation procedures and ALWAYS use a Degree Wheel and Dial Indicator as a final QC of your work.
 
Try not to get frustrated.

This is also difficult for us trying to diagnose a problem in a one-dimension medium of the Internet.

How did your engine run before? Answer= Your Engine timing is Not-Static. Your Valvetrain Geometry is Static.

Its has an ECU that adjusts your timing on the fly. But your Valvetrain has to be ;

1) Within OEM Spec(or in the case of a Custom Camshaft with Builder's Spec anmd required other Mods;
2) Valvetrain has to be installed per OEM proceedures.

Here's the unknown; (Note: Most of us have done this before or have seen this before).

1) Missed a tooth (alignment marks off one increment) during re-installation of the Camshaft, Gears, Chain/Drive.
2) Installed the off-set Cam Key backwards when desired result was to advance/retard the cam timing.

This is why you ALWAYS follow OEM/Cam Makers installation procedures and ALWAYS use a Degree Wheel and Dial Indicator as a final QC of your work.
Admittedly, I am getting frustrated. Let me be perfectly blunt (I know I shouldn't, considering my measly 50+ trophy points):
Ref. Thread title: I asked whether lash caps was a viable option. That's all I asked. I.e. is there some peculiar, weird english automotive twist that makes this _commonly cam mod_ part unsuitable? Well, I found that KM Cams (the best in the business) knew what they were doing. Of course they do. Caps fitted perfectly on the valve stem and elevated the bucket and produced clearances almost perfectly predicted.

After that I have been trying to maintain a positive attitude answering more or less related challenges, challenges in essence to verify if my chosen cam service provider knows what they are doing. And in your case, wheter I am capable of setting cam timing straight.

I _know_ my cam service provider knows what they are doing. I _know_ cam modification is a science, which should not be done by amateurs. I _know_ there is a process of veifying cam lift, ignition timing etc. That is why I spent a heap of cash at cam _proffesionals_ that follow their customer to finish.

So yes, as much as I hate to admit it, this thread is making me frustrated.
 
The reason I asked about valve springs is because the stock springs have approx 50lbs on the seat. The inlet valve has approx 1.5 sq in area. So if you have 10lb boost, you're taking 15lbs OFF the springs, which are already weak. Trying to help you avoid a f__k up, not trying to rain on your parade.
What parade? I really don't see the reason for being straight up patronizing,
If the 8 psi(max) boost, lash caps, lobe geometry or anything else lead to a f*ck up - which of course is an option on an amateur build - I will contribute constructively and openly by posting the failure(s) in this forum.
 
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