You need to post some pictures when you get a chance.
Thought you might be interested.

1) The pictures were all taken at 10PM - F2.8 1 second exposure. Hedge is about 12 yards away. Was actually a bit darker than would appear.
2) The Guzzi has a 40/45Watt Yellow bulb in. I was not up for swapping out all the headlights as the idea was to take all the shots as close to each other as possible.
3) My ADDONS are converted Triumph FOG lights.
4) Guzzi was on it's centre stand - The R3 on it's kick stand.

SO in album

Control photo
Guzzi DIP
Guzzi Main
Converted FOG
Converted MAIN
JW Speakers - Dip
JW Speakers - Dip plus Fogs.
JW Speaker - Main
JW Speaker - Main plus addon Main
JW Speaker - Main plus addn Main and Fogs
I kid you not - the last two shots were near painful to look at in real life.

The sharp eyed amongst you will maybe asking "why the add on mains are not round in the centre?"
Answer: The LED's are square. I really did not expect them to be that focused otherwise I'd have aligned them.
 
one of a few I took this morning in full daylight more in my member gallery photos page two, the little Crees while small put out a Lot of light but it spreads despite being spots, The 4 inch HID put out a more concentrated beam that travels at least twice the distance, I will at next opportunity take some night shots out on the high and post those
 
one of a few I took this morning in full daylight more in my member gallery photos page two, the little Crees while small put out a Lot of light but it spreads despite being spots, The 4 inch HID put out a more concentrated beam that travels at least twice the distance, I will at next opportunity take some night shots out on the high and post those


Looks like a train engine, HansO.
We can NEVER have too much light.
Anxious to see what it does in the dark and how far ahead, fog line to fog line, a deer or roo can be seen.
Did you have to modify for the JWs and/or did you use those extra large HD rims I have read about?
Best Regards,
1olbull
PS: I LOVE my hat and wore it all day while on my ass in the house healing up.
 
I have had it out at night and it was awesome it was like instant daylight, I have a switch on the left infill panel where the ignition relocation switch or power outlet goes so I can switch the HID driving lights and Cree spot of when I want but after taking it out along the Hwy ...they wont be getting switched of very often.
The Cree's probably give good wide spread light for 100+ metres or so while the HID's will give owls up in the trees 200+metres sunburn let alone melt the bitumen
The distance I have given are on the conservative side as there is light lot further (500 metres) up the road If I had one complaint it with the HID's it would be the time it takes to get to full strength light which is why the Cree's are staying on as they give an instant good light up the road till the HID's come up to full power then the Cree's look after the side of the road which is where I have them aimed
 
Gray Beard, Amigo,
Have you seen this line of LEDs?
http://www.bajadesigns.com/ProductDetail?ItemNumber=500005
I be curious what you think.
1olbull
OK
  • 1) They use the absolute BEST (today) LED available the CREE XM-L2. It's what I have in my fogs.
  • 2) But I can see exactly what they've done - basically used simple conical reflectors and added (to some) dispersion lenses. This means the light will be a conical output - i.e. will dazzle oncoming traffic and illuminate treetops to some extent. Limits (imo) their use to MAIN BEAM assistance.
  • At 42 watts a piece - you could pretty much only fit one if you retain Halogen headlights.
  • For that price (STUPID HIGH) you can probably get a pair of the new 6150 JW-Speakers.
  • Or go in e-bay and get similar for about 120bucks. XM-L T6 CREE emmiters.
For Fogs you can also look at the TRUCKLITE PHASE 7 FOG LIGHTS. Not €-approved but are DOT/SAE.
http://www.headlightrevolution.com/Truck_Lite_80275_p/tl80275.htm
 
one of a few I took this morning in full daylight more in my member gallery photos page two, the little Crees while small put out a Lot of light but it spreads despite being spots, The 4 inch HID put out a more concentrated beam that travels at least twice the distance,
Herein lies a message - Not only do you need LUMENS - but directed and controlled LUMENS.
Angle of dispersion over 20º is a waste in general.
FOGS can be as wide as 45º but they're not meant to give much distance.
For LONG RANGE - less than 10º - I'd say 5º.

Here's a CHEAP - though not homologated solution.
Buy cheap (about USD5) aluminium torch bodies. (I'd personally get slight more expensive ones) I'm a fan of SOLARFORCE torch bodies.

Buy cheap (about USD10-12) CREE XM-L (or L2) torch "drop ins" with single mode 3-18V drivers. Just add wires in place of batteries - even shorten the torch body if you wish.

I've a mate who does DAKAR type events - this is what I've helped him make up for night stages - they even have Q/D fittings using Picatinney mounts.

I get mine from http://www.lightmalls.com/ - if you use them make sure you order a spare or two.
 
OK
  • 1) They use the absolute BEST (today) LED available the CREE XM-L2. It's what I have in my fogs.
  • 2) But I can see exactly what they've done - basically used simple conical reflectors and added (to some) dispersion lenses. This means the light will be a conical output - i.e. will dazzle oncoming traffic and illuminate treetops to some extent. Limits (imo) their use to MAIN BEAM assistance.
  • At 42 watts a piece - you could pretty much only fit one if you retain Halogen headlights.
  • For that price (STUPID HIGH) you can probably get a pair of the new 6150 JW-Speakers.
  • Or go in e-bay and get similar for about 120bucks. XM-L T6 CREE emmiters.
For Fogs you can also look at the TRUCKLITE PHASE 7 FOG LIGHTS. Not €-approved but are DOT/SAE.
http://www.headlightrevolution.com/Truck_Lite_80275_p/tl80275.htm


This is some very good information, Amigo! I was especially interested in the 42 watt part as I do not know how much our Rocket alternators can tolerate and still keep the battery charged.

I have worked some with and performed night vision testing on cars. What is most important to me is what I can see while riding at night - not who can see me riding during the daylight. To my knowledge, seeing an animal or object on the roadway at night is not the result of the illuminance (incident light) projected by a light source; but, the luminance or light reflected back from the object. Comparing photos of various light source onto a wall or into the night with no measurement of the luminous flux intensity of the source at unknown distances may show something about the light(s) steradian light pattern but very little about how well the human visibility or luminance of animals or objects on the roadway.

If one is truly interested in night visibility, accurate measurements using a Total Station Transit and light meter must be undertaken in order to determine the pattern of light that allows human identification of animals and objects in the roadway. To date no one has done testing of this sort on motorcycles with various types of lighting. I have neither the time or money to undertake such a study; but, sure wish someone would jack up the light manufacturers for money to show exactly which lights work best and for what cost. When it comes to night visibility, motors are at a distinct disadvantage to other vehicles and we need ALL the light we can get - JMHO
Best Regards,
1olbull
 
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