Blinker Cancel / Running Lights / Flashing Brake

Discussion in 'BearClaw Corner' started by Journeyman28778, Sep 7, 2019.

  1. Journeyman28778

    Journeyman28778 "And this one is just right" ~ Goldilocks

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    I had a Kisan SignalMinder on another bike and finally added one to the Roadster. Unless you never forget your indicator after making a turn and getting distracted by x,y,z, I highly recommend this $110 contraption. One time is all it takes for a cager to think you are turning and plow right into you.

    This device cancels your blinker after 10 or 20 seconds. When stopped with the brake on it pauses the countdown. Also, you can convert your signal lights into running lights. When braking your signal lights will flash. There's also a way to turn on hazard flashers.

    It will work with standard bulbs, but for increased brightness and decreased load I ordered LED replacement bulbs from Superbright LED for $39 - 4 indicator bulbs + brake light. There's a vehicle finder that will ensure you get the right bulb. It's a great company. The Kisan negates the need for a load resistor for the LEDs.

    If you want the running lights feature you have to tap into three wires. Like many of you guys, I don't like messing with electronics, but this was super easy. First, I located the flasher relay under the right side cover. Turn on a blinker and feel for it- you remove that and plug in the Kisan. That's all you do to have blinker cancelling and set it for either 10 or 20 seconds.

    Next, I looked up the wiring codes in the Roadster Supplement Manual for the indicators and brake light and found them near the relay. The smaller colored wires connect to heavier wire (different color) which I thought best to tap into. To verify which was which, I just turned on an indicator or pushed the brake and disconnected the wire- if it goes off, that's your wire.

    Rather than use the T-taps (don't like) directly, I used Lockitt Posi-Taps, which don't damage your wire (and are reusable). I connected short pieces of wire to the Posi-Taps and used the T-Taps on those instead. This added an extra connection point but makes removing everything easy and damage free. At some point I'll get rid of all the excess wiring on the Kisan harness to tidy things up a bit.

    Anyway, I thought this might be something others might want to look into and if installation seems daunting- it isn't.

    kisanimg_3924.jpg kisanimg_3925.jpg kisanimg_3921.jpg kisanimg_3922.jpg

    Edit/add 9-8-19 One quirk- because the Roadster has a single instrument panel light for the blinker (for both left and right) it will flash continuously (see Kisan for explanation). The remedy is to remove/disable the bulb or replace with an LED bulb- my next project.
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2019
  2. vindex1963

    vindex1963 .060 Over

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    Interesting, I like the added lighting for the brake lights.
     
  3. DEcosse

    DEcosse If it's no Scottish it's CRAP!

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    Good choice on the PosiTaps - I share your disdain for T-Taps - But why did you attach the T-Taps to the Positaps? Just cut the T-Tap spades off and put the wire from your Kisan directly into the PosiTap - and that solves your excess wire issue at the same time.

    Running Lights - the turns do not operate as additional brake lights, just running lights (the only brake light change is the bulb to LED)

    @Journeyman28778 - another thing to consider to compliment your set-up further might be to add a Brake Light Modulator
     
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  4. Journeyman28778

    Journeyman28778 "And this one is just right" ~ Goldilocks

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    Agreed- I have one of those already- like automatic blinker shutoff it should be a stock feature.
     
  5. CrzystghndKC

    CrzystghndKC Triumph guy happy he didn't work for Harley.

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    Love my signalminder as well. Don't forget it has a parade blinker as well as a hazard. You haven't mentioned the modification to the switch. That was the hard part for the tech that installed mine. How'd that go?
     
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2019
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  6. Journeyman28778

    Journeyman28778 "And this one is just right" ~ Goldilocks

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    Funny you should bring that up. Even if you hadn't, I planned to give this update today. What we're talking about here is an option to physically modify the switch that does away with the way it normally locks and requires you to press the middle button to cancel.

    With SignalMinder if you don't modify, you have to get in the habit of pressing the button before you push the switch to make a turn, as it may already be locked in that direction. That explanation may be hard to follow, but needless to say you need to bush the button first, then slide the switch. It's really not a big deal and easily becomes second nature. That's how I left it on a Bonneville I had years ago and it was just fine.

    Funny, because yesterday I decided to try to modify the switch. You have two choices. You can either cut off some little pieces of plastic inside the switch that lock the slide (not good if you ever do away with the Kisan), or as Kisan suggests put a piece of clam shell plastic between those little tabs and the place where they catch.

    Let me tell you that this is one of those parts that is best left alone. It's easy enough to do, but once open there are four tiny tiny little springs, some tiny pieces of connective brass and two micro ball bearings, along with a couple of other small parts. If you move your switch while open to see how it works (right?) those little parts go... ping!

    I felt like I won the lottery yesterday in that I didn't lose anything. Had just one of those pieces hit the floor in my shed I'm certain I would have never found it. Anyway, there I was, so I cut a piece of plastic according to the instructions, but couldn't figure out where they meant for it to go ("insert in the cavity") and, sweating now and feeling I was already pushing my luck, I very carefully put it all back together and just considered myself lucky that it still worked properly.

    If you're the kind of person who likes to take old analog watches apart and put them back together, then this job might be for you. If your garage floor is spotless, with no clutter within 10 feet of your bike, and you have razor sharp vision, then this job might be for you.

    My advice to the rest of us is... DON'T OPEN UP YOUR SIGNAL SWITCH! Push, slide... easy.
     
  7. vzrDean1800

    vzrDean1800 Standard Bore

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    " Don't open up the signal switch"
    I've been thinking about installing an STS cancel module on my R3 ( it's works perfectly on the M109). Your advice has me rethinking that!
     
  8. Journeyman28778

    Journeyman28778 "And this one is just right" ~ Goldilocks

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    I wish that I had taken pictures, but I was so stressed about getting it back together that I didn't even want to stop to get my phone.

    Maybe I'm overstating it, but if you do go for it I'd just clear out space around the bike, sweep really good, and maybe try to make a catch tent of foil or something under your indicator switch. Have tweezers ready and practice "operation" before proceeding. :)
    upload_2019-9-8_11-20-40.jpeg
     
  9. RockOn

    RockOn Supercharged

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    "My advice to the rest of us is... DON'T OPEN UP YOUR SIGNAL SWITCH! Push, slide... easy."

    J.......do you keep the button pressed down as you slide the switch?

    Thanks.
     
  10. Journeyman28778

    Journeyman28778 "And this one is just right" ~ Goldilocks

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    Just push it, in case it is already locked in the direction you are going, to release and then slide. You don't have to hold the button, but I'll see if that works (probably) to make it one motion.
     
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