Hot Rear Brakes

With the rear tire in the air, gear in neutral, pump the rear pedal 10-15 times. Then immediately try to turn the rear wheel. If it doesn't turn, or it drags you have one or both problems... bad line holding pressure too long or a sticking caliper.

Air in the lines will make it feel spongy, should not hold pressure.
 
If it were me : I'd strip and rebuild the M/C and Caliper. I'd also (more than likely) replace the rear hose too.

Worn M/C seals can contribute - you'd also notice the rear brake being a bit weak.

You could of course also take advantage of the situation and fit PRETECH callipers.
 
They will likely pop out. Stick a bit of timber in the gap.

Sounds pretty likely that your calipers are sticking. A good cleaning might do it. Pump the pistons out slightly farther than they typically go. A piece of "timber" is a good idea to prevent them from popping out, but if you're careful, pump slowly and watch, you can do it that way. You may have to hold one piston firm for the other to start moving out. Hot soapy water and a toothbrush- get the pistons spotless so they don't catch.

If that doesn't fix it, or depending on your mileage on the bike, you may want to just go ahead and rebuild the caliper. There are two kits- one with seals that includes pistons and another that just includes the seals. Unless you pistons are marred/rusted, you can probably just polish them up like new.

rocket 3 rear caliper seals | eBay

After that, change the pads if needed and flush with new fluid. Brakes will be like new.

The seals go in a certain direction- make sure you don't reverse them or they will leak. This is a good video on the front caliper, but the process is pretty similar on the rear (easier, only one set of pistons). Right at about 13:00 he describes the orientation of the seals...


With every tire change I do a thorough cleaning of the calipers by removing the pads and extending the pistons so I can clean them. It keeps things working smoothly.

My rear brakes are getting weak and I have this on my "to do" list, as well.
 
OK; Put the pistons through several full excursions. The exposed lip of the pistons is rusted. Spray cleaned the calipers and discs. Re installed the pads and went for a ride. No rear brake use = cool disc. Yeah! Used rear discs they stop but get hot. The fronts get hot but not as much. Long ride = front and rear brakes are firm. Rear disc gets hotter than front but not Ironing pssss hot. I think we have fixed the problem. Now, do I still need to rehab the caliper? New pistons and O rings?
 
OK; Put the pistons through several full excursions. The exposed lip of the pistons is rusted. Spray cleaned the calipers and discs. Re installed the pads and went for a ride. No rear brake use = cool disc. Yeah! Used rear discs they stop but get hot. The fronts get hot but not as much. Long ride = front and rear brakes are firm. Rear disc gets hotter than front but not Ironing pssss hot. I think we have fixed the problem. Now, do I still need to rehab the caliper? New pistons and O rings?

Rear brake should get hotter due to it is all by it's lonesome and the fronts have double the muscle o_O
 
After looking at the video, definitely need to rebuild my rear and front calipers. Not a big deal. It just like cleaning guns.

Now, Barbagris, tell me more about the rear hose. I also think that the rust on the lip of the piston disqualifies it. Need to get the whole kit with pistons.

Im surprised I had not seen any threads on this issue. Going downhill on the Smokies without good brakes :eek:
 
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