Rear wheel bearing/need a new rim

[Mongler07]

Imo I would take it to a machine shop, have them bore it and press in a sleve and machine it back to spec. I had a similar repair, cost $150 and they had it done in 3 days

 

[Bernard Vinet]

Go to. and they might have what you need at a reasonable price .
| Pinwall Cycle Parts, Inc | Your one stop, motorcycle shop for used parts, service, accessories, & apparel

 

[Stillserving]

Yup already checked Pinwall. They have some non-ABS rims for about 2-300, haven't seen any ABS ones though.

 

[Stillserving]

The same thing happened to me. Mine wasn't as loose as yours. I ended up with more than a slip fit though. My cush drive was still good. I was able to reassemble the bearing into the rim using Loctite 638 high strength retaining compound made for retaining bearings, gears, bushings etc to shafts. It will take up quite a bit of slop but you have to let it set for a few days for maximum strength. Several thousand kilos on the rim to date with no problem. When I noticed the issue, there was a whining sound from the rear end when I cornered that disappeared on the straight. Since the fix, no more whine... fingers crossed.

If it happens again, I'm going to a machine shop and have them bore the rim out and insert a steal sleeve for the bearing. All they need is the outer bearing size. I've done it on earlier front wheel hubs in the automotive world when a hub wasn't available.

That's what I'm leaning to also as the cause. Over the last few months maybe, I thought I would hear something every so often, but could never get it to duplicate on a regular basis/nail it down. I was definitely thinking machine shop or maybe even a bearing with a larger OD, but unless the hole is evenly buggered, that's not a perfect solution either.

 

[cootertwo]

Does that bearing turn free? Looks like what happens when a bearing locks up and spins in the bore.

 

[Stillserving]

Bearing turns freely and no apparent color change or visible heat damage.

 

[Mongler07]

The axle not being torqued properly will do this.
Its entirely possible that there was a bad bearing in the past and it caused a little wear or all this wear and somone replaced it as it is now or it was not torqued properly and casued this.either way a lathe is the only way it can repaired and for the $400 for a new or used wheel... just take it local and have it repaired for the sub $200 price and have it polished or painted for the $75

It could also be that the wheel is not true and had been causing this issue with the combined issues stated above.

 

[TURBO200R4]

The axle not being torqued properly will do this.
Its entirely possible that there was a bad bearing in the past and it caused a little wear or all this wear and somone replaced it as it is now or it was not torqued properly and casued this.either way a lathe is the only way it can repaired and for the $400 for a new or used wheel... just take it local and have it repaired for the sub $200 price and have it polished or painted for the $75

It could also be that the wheel is not true and had been causing this issue with the combined issues stated above.

Because of the long spacer in the middle it would have to be cut perfect on the seat part of the rim. if cut to deep it will let the rim move out and in anf not deep enugh will break the rim.
but if you have another rim to measure the deepth of the bearings set then the lathe may be the way to go.
i have seen several pics of the rim broken from whatever reason. maybe a tire changer or someone losing the sleve between the bearings.
hth

 

[Mongler07]

Because of the long spacer in the middle it would have to be cut perfect on the seat part of the rim. if cut to deep it will let the rim move out and in anf not deep enugh will break the rim.
but if you have another rim to measure the deepth of the bearings set then the lathe may be the way to go.
i have seen several pics of the rim broken from whatever reason. maybe a tire changer or someone losing the sleve between the bearings.
hth

and that's what a lathe and a dial caliper is for
bore the entire thing out past the seat. put a interference fit steel sleeve in by shrinking in liquid nitrogen with the spacer in place, bore out the sleve, remove spacer and finish boring and machining using the outer part of the wheel and a dial caliper to center the wheel
This was actually how i fixed... or rather how the machine shop fixed my wheel.. but it was on an old honda CB i had back in utah
people have been line boring things for well over 300 years!

 

[Gregger]

The machining work needed on that brg bore isn't really that depth sensitive. Just needs to be close. I'll try and explain with the help of an All Balls PDF.

The outer rim brg by the brake rotor is the one that is bottomed out in the rim, then locked with the snap ring. The long spacer is then installed bottoming against it. Then the brg that's going into the newly installed sleeve is pressed in until the inner race contacts the long spacer. Even if there is a bit of space between the outer race and rim, when the new brg is pressed into the sleeve it's fine so long as the spacer is contacting both rim bearings. If you try to bottom out the new brg outer race in the sleeve, you could sideload the brg. Also, the rim can't float because the snap ring on the outer brg prevents this.

Confused yet! Look closely at the pics. Note where the inner/outer races are in each pic.