Rear wheel bearing/need a new rim

[Stillserving]

So, I was changing my rear tire when I noticed that the Cush drive was worn out/there was a lot of rubber dust. I did a quick look over and decided I needed a new Cush drive rubber ( I did notice it was getting a little "clunky" in the engagement, so I figured that's all there was to it.

While cleaning up the rubber I noticed the inner wheel bearing was moving around:

The bearing was waaay to easy to remove (obviously) and there is a lip around the outer area on the rim:

So, now I need a new rim
I never thought to check the Cush and bearings at each tire change (I just changed the tire a year ago and didn't notice any issues/excess play, but maybe I would have noticed something??) This sucks! Any of you ever try an oversized bearing or I guess I should just say F it and buy a new rim!! Anybody got an extra Roadster rim sitting around they want to sell? What's even worse is I didn't fully investigate the issue until after I changed the tire, so now I have to dismount and remount the new tire on the new rim!!

 

[TURBO200R4]

Something seems odd about this.
even if the seal came out the spacers and inner sleve should have held that bearing deeper in that rim.
i would do more checking or get a wheel/rim with axle and spacers and inner spacer,

 

[Kevin frazier]

I believe all years classic and roadster are same

 

[Stillserving]

I believe all years classic and roadster are same

I was thinking about that, but the ABS rim appears to mount to the rim and the non-ABS models don't have threaded holes for it.

 

[Stillserving]

Something seems odd about this.
even if the seal came out the spacers and inner sleve should have held that bearing deeper in that rim.
i would do more checking or get a wheel/rim with axle and spacers and inner spacer,

That's the inner bearing, and the "mushroom" as I call it holds pressure on the inner bearing and then the cush drive outer piece with the final drive engagement splines and outer bearing go on top of that. If there was excess play in the cush drive cover with the outer bearing caused by the rubber wear, that would cause slop in the entire assembly, no? Only other thing I can think of is maybe the axel nut loosened slightly and allowed it to wobble a little. That could also have caused the cush drive rubber to wear with the excess play. Not to mention, I'm not a very gentle rider if you know what I mean.

 

[Gregger]

The same thing happened to me. Mine wasn't as loose as yours. I ended up with more than a slip fit though. My cush drive was still good. I was able to reassemble the bearing into the rim using Loctite 638 high strength retaining compound made for retaining bearings, gears, bushings etc to shafts. It will take up quite a bit of slop but you have to let it set for a few days for maximum strength. Several thousand kilos on the rim to date with no problem. When I noticed the issue, there was a whining sound from the rear end when I cornered that disappeared on the straight. Since the fix, no more whine... fingers crossed.

If it happens again, I'm going to a machine shop and have them bore the rim out and insert a steal sleeve for the bearing. All they need is the outer bearing size. I've done it on earlier front wheel hubs in the automotive world when a hub wasn't available.

 

[TURBO200R4]

That's the inner bearing, and the "mushroom" as I call it holds pressure on the inner bearing and then the cush drive outer piece with the final drive engagement splines and outer bearing go on top of that. If there was excess play in the cush drive cover with the outer bearing caused by the rubber wear, that would cause slop in the entire assembly, no? Only other thing I can think of is maybe the axel nut loosened slightly and allowed it to wobble a little. That could also have caused the cush drive rubber to wear with the excess play. Not to mention, I'm not a very gentle rider if you know what I mean.

I think you need more research.

 

[TURBO200R4]

I think you need more research.

 

[Gerald]

The same thing happened to me. Mine wasn't as loose as yours. I ended up with more than a slip fit though. My cush drive was still good. I was able to reassemble the bearing into the rim using Loctite 638 high strength retaining compound made for retaining bearings, gears, bushings etc to shafts. It will take up quite a bit of slop but you have to let it set for a few days for maximum strength. Several thousand kilos on the rim to date with no problem. When I noticed the issue, there was a whining sound from the rear end when I cornered that disappeared on the straight. Since the fix, no more whine... fingers crossed.

If it happens again, I'm going to a machine shop and have them bore the rim out and insert a steal sleeve for the bearing. All they need is the outer bearing size. I've done it on earlier front wheel hubs in the automotive world when a hub wasn't available.

Sounds like a good solution, would take a new bearing with me to mike for actual size.

 

[Gregger]

If there was excess play in the cush drive cover with the outer bearing caused by the rubber wear, that would cause slop in the entire assembly, no? Only other thing I can think of is maybe the axel nut loosened slightly and allowed it to wobble a little.

The cush drive cover (Final Driven Flange A assembly #10) as you call it, is equipped with a sliding stepped spacer #20 that slides in the bearing #18 which is fitted in #10 final driven flange. When the axle is tightened to 81 ft/lbs the cush drive rubber is compressed along with all the inner wheel brgs and spacers until everything bottoms out against the spacer in the final drive (Not shown). If one of those spacers is missing, including the ones on the swing arm, the wheel is free to float and that brg can possibly move in the bore. Likewise, if you aren't up to the right torque value on the axle, the cush drive may not be compressed enough and the wheel/rim could float a bit again allowing that bearing to move in the bore.