Help! Poor running and I want to go to Sturgis

Beast. Sorry to hear about your idle and running issues in the middle of the Black Hill's rally. My R3 suffered similar problem for several years. Problem started when the tank was lifted to install a keyless module from DeCosse. I reverted back to using the key. Then I installed to RamAir and the "throttle-up" fits started. At first a TPS change and a HansO tune seemed to help. Problem came back. Changed the MAP sensor. Seemed to help, problem came back. Somehow the bike although it tried, it did not kill me. Last November while in Leakey Robert (claviger) disconnected the stepper and removed the idle primary butterflies. Then adjusted the master idle screw so the bile would idle controlled by a hard stop instead of the stepper motor. BearClaw and RamAir had to come off to do that. Eventually I removed the linkage arm from the stepper to the throttle and reconnected the stepper. The motor moves but does not actuate the throttle. The bike throws a red engine light but it goes away. Otherwise it runs like a charm since.

I would disconnect the stepper motor and see if the bike idles and the throttle stops going wild. If it don't idle, adjust the main mechanical idle stop until the bike idles at 850 to 900 rpm. If that does not fix it, I have no idea what else to do. My issue was with the idle arm. It was gummed up and would not move freely causing stepper miss-reading and idle run-up. I just took it off. Probably the stepper motor should be replaced too but, I'm not going back to stock. The bike runs better without it. The bike does not need the stepper motor to run. After Robert's fix my bike would require throttle to start but it has adapted... not it starts into a slow idle just with clutch and start button. While cold I keep it alive with the throttle lock. Once hot it idles true and steady. It lurches from idle to shallow throttle but they all do that. I go into turns with the rear brake on to smooth that transition from throttle off to throttle light.

I hope this helps and your vacation goes will in spite of the idle problems.
 
If a coil quits firing that would cause some unburnt fuel to pass.
Yeah that's what I was thinking but above 2000 RPM's it runs just fine.
Beast. Sorry to hear about your idle and running issues in the middle of the Black Hill's rally. My R3 suffered similar problem for several years. Problem started when the tank was lifted to install a keyless module from DeCosse. I reverted back to using the key. Then I installed to RamAir and the "throttle-up" fits started. At first a TPS change and a HansO tune seemed to help. Problem came back. Changed the MAP sensor. Seemed to help, problem came back. Somehow the bike although it tried, it did not kill me. Last November while in Leakey Robert (claviger) disconnected the stepper and removed the idle primary butterflies. Then adjusted the master idle screw so the bile would idle controlled by a hard stop instead of the stepper motor. BearClaw and RamAir had to come off to do that. Eventually I removed the linkage arm from the stepper to the throttle and reconnected the stepper. The motor moves but does not actuate the throttle. The bike throws a red engine light but it goes away. Otherwise it runs like a charm since.

I would disconnect the stepper motor and see if the bike idles and the throttle stops going wild. If it don't idle, adjust the main mechanical idle stop until the bike idles at 850 to 900 rpm. If that does not fix it, I have no idea what else to do. My issue was with the idle arm. It was gummed up and would not move freely causing stepper miss-reading and idle run-up. I just took it off. Probably the stepper motor should be replaced too but, I'm not going back to stock. The bike runs better without it. The bike does not need the stepper motor to run. After Robert's fix my bike would require throttle to start but it has adapted... not it starts into a slow idle just with clutch and start button. While cold I keep it alive with the throttle lock. Once hot it idles true and steady. It lurches from idle to shallow throttle but they all do that. I go into turns with the rear brake on to smooth that transition from throttle off to throttle light.

I hope this helps and your vacation goes will in spite of the idle problems.
That sounds exactly it right now. But the only problem is the primary idle stop does nothing!!! I've adjusted it in both directions and back. It doesn't help. It will run good then crappy. I have ram air and a paul Brant header. It was Dyno tuned by 2wheeel in Seattle. I'm bringing it to a shop tomorrow but I have little faith. I as I said I tried disconnecting the stepper. Clso maybe I don't actually know where the primary idle adjust is... I thought it was just next to the secondary TPS. Anyways thanks for chiming in much appreciated 👍. I do need to get home lol do I'll try whatever.
 
idle movment 1.jpg


This is the front aspect of the throttle body. The throttle cables have been removed. On the right lower field you have the stepper motor. It's purpose is to push and trim the idle arm linkage. The arm rotates on a spindle and is held by a washer and a cotter pin. Just one mini drop of very thin oil right by the washer should suffice. Make sure the linkage arm is moving freely. Make sure everything else is moving freely and that there is adequate play in the throttle cables. You don't have to remove them to try this fix. The stepper connector is right in the front aspect of the throttle bodies. Figure it out and disconnect it. The hard idle screw is at 12 o'clock in the picture. In my case it is a 2mm allen with a lock nut. A royal pain to loosen from factory setting. Easier to do once the secondary TPS is removed. In the pic the head looks like a 6 or 7 mm wrench. If you don't have an android resetting the secondary TPS perfectly is going to be chance. Mark very well where it is before removing it. The PC version of TuneECU does not have a secondary TPS adjustment option. Android does.

From my limited experience this is either a bad TPS or a bad stepper of bad software. Good luck.
 
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idle movment 1.jpg

This is the front aspect of the throttle body. The throttle cables have been removed. On the right lower field you have the stepper motor. It's purpose is to push and trim the idle arm linkage. The arm rotates on a spindle and is held by a washer and a cotter pin. Just one mini drop of very thin oil right by the washer should suffice. Make sure the linkage arm is moving freely. Make sure everything else is moving freely and that there is adequate play in the throttle cables. You don't have to remove them to try this fix. The stepper connector is right in the front aspect of the throttle bodies. Figure it out and disconnect it. The hard idle screw is at 12 o'clock in the picture. In my case it is a 2mm allen with a lock nut. A royal pain to loosen from factory setting. Easier to do once the secondary TPS is removed. In the pic the head looks like a 6 or 7 mm wrench. If you don't have an android resetting the secondary TPS perfectly is going to be chance. Mark very well where it is before removing it. The PC version of TuneECU does not have a secondary TPS adjustment option. Android does.

From my limited experience this is either a bad TPS or a bad stepper of bad software. Good luck.
Okay that's exactly what I thought. Unortunately that really makes it worse/better. I've done all of that with no good reaction. I can see the black smoke coming from the exhaust. I seriously can't thank you enough. This is one of the worst kind of trouble shooting problems heat soak issue. The. Bike sat on main street and cooled done enough and worked wonderful. When I got back to the house it's already having the problem once I restarted it. Lol it's very frustrating..
 
this is something i have tried
while idling good i disconnected the stepper motor (electric) and took it for a ride everything seemed ok but it turned on the check engine light. if i was on the road this is what i would try instead of messing with the throttle stop screw.
also try to inspect the three vacuum hoses going to map sensors.
if it just keeps getting richer (problem) then i would say try to check and make sure the o2sensor is working. if o2 is working it might be able to copensate for the running rich.
 
u may be correct it seems the longer and hotter they get the worse they work when they r bad
i do not remember will it straighten out after a while over 2500 rpm?

I had two older bikes do this to me! As you know. A simple resistance test will tell all! Test is simple, but getting to them coils is a pita!
 
this is something i have tried
while idling good i disconnected the stepper motor (electric) and took it for a ride everything seemed ok but it turned on the check engine light. if i was on the road this is what i would try instead of messing with the throttle stop screw.
also try to inspect the three vacuum hoses going to map sensors.
if it just keeps getting richer (problem) then i would say try to check and make sure the o2sensor is working. if o2 is working it might be able to copensate for the running rich.
Thanks turbo for some reason I I tried disconnecting the servo and the bike didn't start. As In the starter seemed disabled. It's at the dealer now. Hopefully they can figure it out 🤞.
 
Much wiser minds have commented on this than I and I assure you I know nothing compared to them. BUT some years ago I had what sounds like a similar problem with my ‘09. Erratic idle and would chugg chug on acceleration and sometimes would clear. Worse when hot or even just warmed up. We went through everything mentioned above and more, replaced map sensor, loaded various tunes, new spark plugs, even had the injectors ultrasonically cleaned. Nothing worked. As a last resort I put a new set of plug leads on. Bingo! It was perfect. If your coils are fine, it could be a leads. Just a thought.
 
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