First Triumph gets you addicted, then they cut you off!

... . End of last season began only starting on the second punch, then eventually the third, then the 4th, and eventually not at all ....

I try to start it-no go.

...this time when they drop it off I get smart and start it before they leave, it lights on 2nd or 3rd punch.

OK. 2 week go by, its been on the tender and the snow/ice gone so its time to feed my long suffering addiction...no go.

..2 days later I get excited for a ride and no start."

Need more info please
- you are just saying no start but can you elaborate
Is it not cranking or is it cranking but not firing?

When you say you try multiple attempts what happens:
First couple of attempts do you get (seemingly) no response from the start button or does it just not complete to fire up and run?
Or - does it do nothing - or perhaps just a click?

Can you check please - if you pull the clutch and press the start button - if it does NOT crank over, do the headlights go out? (ask a friend or have it be dark enough you can see) - check while holding the button and clutch even if it is not cranking (the lights should go out completely)
 
My 2010 Roadster had the dreaded ignition failure, buy the nice beaver thing and fit it I did . Makes your lights brighter too .
 
My 2010 Roadster had the dreaded ignition failure, buy the nice beaver thing and fit it I did . Makes your lights brighter too .

A '10 Roadster SHOULD NOT require an EB Kit - it SHOULD have had the Recall and been done by Triumph at THEIR cost.
........ And Triumph should have paid for the Ignition replacement too, if the recall had not been done!!

Detailed explanation here - Triumph Quit Ignoring Your Ignition Problems

Yes - if the recall had not been done then the switch CAN fail - same as a Classic.
But Triumph has acknowledged this problem with '10 Roadsters and provided a FOC update.
So if a switch failed because the mod was not incorporated, the replacement should be on their nickel (as well as completing the update)
 
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turn the ignition on and the clocks sweep and glow brightly...all functions on the clocks present themselves as normal. pull the clutch in hit the starter and it cranks over but does not catch...lights through this process remain bright
 
I like your idea steel as while i am fairly handy I am not terribly experienced with motors but I can a least expose everything and check it out for corrosion and worn wires...I am very isolated here in Alaska with limited local resources. -Doug
Isolated heck man your on the main land not the chain :)
 
turn the ignition on and the clocks sweep and glow brightly...all functions on the clocks present themselves as normal. pull the clutch in hit the starter and it cranks over but does not catch...lights through this process remain bright
If it's turning but not starting, first is the fuel pump priming? Check the wires from the coils to make sure the crimps are tight. Then check if the tps is right, and the stepper motor is adjusting the butterflies. Next I'd pull a plug to check for spark.
 
Isolated heck man your on the main land not the chain :)
True enough Warp!! I spent 6 weeks on Unalaska conducting an archeological dig and the chain is definitely in the tooly-sticks...very beautiful country though.
 
The fact that it’s turning the motor but not firing: nearly positive indicator that it’s not your battery, RR, or stator. Most Rockets having starting issues won’t turn the motor over they just click when you hit the button.

Check the plugs on the coils for corrosion.
Remove and clean the crank position sensor.
Unplug clean and reconnect all connections using a little dielectric grease.

Three things to run, gas, air, spark. You know you are getting air, so check the leads on the coils, if that doesn’t fix it measure the coils to make sure ones not shorted internally.

If the ignition system is fine, my next step would be replacing the fuel pump and filter not super expensive and you can throw in a Walbro and never ever have to worry about it.

PS: Your mechanic is lazy, beware.
 
Yes they should have stayed with the vtwin formation like everybody else:eek: and be as boring as the rest, shame on Triumph for thinking outside the box.:D
I have wrenched on enough TR6s and Jags over the years messing with dozens of shims to simply set the valves. Japanese engineering as far as autos go is FAR superior, I think likewise regarding motorcycles but I do love the R3 tour. I hope I can work one out.
 
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