First Triumph gets you addicted, then they cut you off!

[dave64]

A '10 Roadster SHOULD NOT require an EB Kit - it SHOULD have had the Recall and been done by Triumph at THEIR cost.
........ And Triumph should have paid for the Ignition replacement too, if the recall had not been done!!

Detailed explanation here - Triumph Quit Ignoring Your Ignition Problems

Yes - if the recall had not been done then the switch CAN fail - same as a Classic.
But Triumph has acknowledged this problem with '10 Roadsters and provided a FOC update.
So if a switch failed because the mod was not incorporated, the replacement should be on their nickel (as well as completing the update)

Yes they fixed under warranty, but I did the beaver as well. Recall was listed as done but had not been done by bike shop I purchased from.

 

[DEcosse]

turn the ignition on and the clocks sweep and glow brightly...all functions on the clocks present themselves as normal. pull the clutch in hit the starter and it cranks over but does not catch...lights through this process remain bright

The first part is important piece of info - it IS cranking, just not firing.
The second part you really should check again - the headlights should absolutely be going off WHILE the bike is cranking (they will be on BEFORE you press the Start button and AGAIN when you release it)
Can you confirm that please.

(Do also check for that relay mod - it is definitely NOT a factor in your problem, however it absolutely needs to be done if not or you'll have other issues!)

The fact that it’s turning the motor but not firing: nearly positive indicator that it’s not your battery, RR, or stator. ..

Exactly! (except for the word 'nearly' which I would just delete from that statement )
Why they were chasing R/R etc is beyond me (well, it's not beyond me, because they have proved incompetent)
So as @Claviger stated, 100% agree this has nothing to do with key-switch, battery or generating system.
And confirms that an EB kit will do nothing for this non-start issue

So that is an extremely important delineator - it IS cranking, but failing to fire.
That leads you to either fuel or spark - very different scenario and mechanism from not cranking!!
Pursue those suggestions from @Claviger and @Steel to determine which of those is problem.
The other thing to inspect is the hoses to the TB's - ensure you have none disconnected or cracked & leaking.
If you have TuneECU, it would be quite helpful if you CAN get it started to show a screen-shot of the diagnostic screen with it running at idle

Just a gentle reminder (and absolutely not teaching you to suck eggs or suggest like your dealer you don't know how to start it - it is really important with these EFI bikes that you do not use the twist grip AT ALL when attempting to start - the EFI mapping is quite sophisticated and it just creates an over-rich flooding situation if you use throttle while starting.

If you have been cranking and it has not fired, then at that point you should pull a coil and plug and inspect whether it's wet or dry; and can further at same time test for spark at plug while cranking.

The TPS and Idle Control calibration is very important - there is a procedure which you just have to painstakingly adhere to.

 

[barbagris]

Has never left me out in the cold.

Ditto - but oddly THIS YEAR it has half heartedly tried a couple of times.

 

[Gregger]

Douglas,

You mentioned that you were handy which is an asset when owning any motorcycle. Some of the suggestions assume you know the lingo or location of the item/component. Crank position sensor, throttle body, stepper motor etc. Don't hesitate to ask if you aren't sure (no such thing as a dumb question). DEcosse is our resident guru when it comes to electrical issues. Follow his suggestions to the letter and you will find the problem. Take note of the symptoms explaining them clearly. For example, you stated that the engine cranks but doesn't catch. Are you saying that the engine turns over but doesn't fire up or the starter is spinning but not engaging the flywheel? I think you're saying that the engine is turning over and not catching but detail is key to solving this. Claviger, Steel and quite a number of other very experienced individuals should also be heeded for their suggestions. They have seen it all. Stay clear of the jump to conclusions unless the "DEcosse" logic is applied. You will find this problem.

Also, as DEcosse stated, the headlights have to go out while cranking the engine over. If they aren't, I wonder what modifications have been done to the starting circuit.

Oh, I wouldn't trust that dealership for anything. If they replaced your tires, make sure they haven't overtorqued your rear axle!!!!! Those kind of mechanics give real mechanics a bad name. Also, you stated they replaced a number of components. Did they state how they diagnosed the problem, because your symptoms don't suggest that the rectifier or battery were ever the issue. Hope you didn't have to pay for the comebacks. To turn the quote around from your service manager, I think that "there is some insinuation from the R3 OWNERS GROUP that THIS SERVICE MANAGER IS unaware of how to FIX a motorcycle".

 

[cootertwo]

With an older battery, my 2013 would turn over, but a little slower than usual, but would not make spark. Top the battery off with a quick charge, and all was well. Curious as to what voltage the ignition system actually cuts out? I know I need to do the heavier starter and ground cable thing, but a new battery does the trick for a year or two. I think I'm on my 3rd battery in the 2013, with 20,000 miles.
I also have a whole collection of battery tenders. Some seem to work OK, some....???? 5 motorcycles, 1 riding mower, 1 tractor, 1 golf cart !!! Very hard to ride everything long enough to keep them up! 2 Harleys 1200 Sportsters, and a Kawasaki ZRX1200r for sale, local only.