Electrical gremlin

[Lucifer Orange]

no not in-line, between the high beam and ground

As for size, I'm not sure but the 'biggest' one that will work to quench it
Try 1K for starters - 1/4W (or better) is plenty as far as power rating goes at that size.
If you have to go below that, say 470 ohms, you would need at least 1/2W.

Alternative is to put a diode in-line (yes in line this time) with the feed to the high beams (one on each light) but the diode would have to be at least 5A rated.
That way the high beam signal forward biases the lamp but is reverse biased off the bleed-through.

Great, thank you. I'm no scientist when it come to electrics but will give it a go and see what happens. Many thanks for your help

 

[barbagris]

 

[Scorp]

Mine is the same, once warmed up the hight beam indicator shows. I can live with it. That is the cost difference between the Chinese ones compared to the branded. Worth the blue light on at times for the $$$ saving.

 

[Lucifer Orange]

Mine is the same, once warmed up the hight beam indicator shows. I can live with it. That is the cost difference between the Chinese ones compared to the branded. Worth the blue light on at times for the $$$ saving.

I'm going to give the inline diode solution a go Scorp, if it works i'll let you know so you can cure if you wish

 

[Bigjaype]

1kiloOhm resister between the high beam positive and ground sorts it...and you only need to do it in one light.
With an in-line diode you’ll need to do both Lights and they will need to be rated for the current drawn by the led plus a safety margin. A resistor will cost less than $1.

 

[sonny]

Plug and go. With no problems.

 

[Ishrub]

Plug and go. With no problems.

Same, no issues with cheap Chinese halo LED.