YES INDEED - Lush "street cams" fit with real life

Sweet! Hey man, there's still daylight out there- let's hear how she runs! Waiting to see what you say about the effect on torque. Addictive, need more....

I had the same problems using the tool with an old chain when changing a shim. I figured the chain must have stretched and was causing all the problems. Tight/loose seems to be a PITA. I won't say how many attempts it took me. And next time I'll pull the front wheel so I can see the timing mark straight on- my neck still hurts. I did what @Joesmoe said and used a dowel rod to determine when #1 was at TDC.
 
Lucky I am not @Nat67 , he may now get a gift voucher next birthday from @Nat69's girl for his local hardware store to buy 16 plastic buckets for his next 'Bucket under shim upgrade".

Don't worry Nat you can take them back for a galvanised metal upgrade with 'roller rockers"!;):D:p

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I could replace those rollers, pretty sure, I think
 
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Got about a hour in and started to rain. Did do a valve clearance check and nailed the math. All intake settings at 11MM to 12MM. Exhaust settings at 16MM all the way. Very happy with that. All cleaned up and ready for in the morning. New valve cover gasket has been setting between two boards for about a week and lies flat. Makes the installation a lot easier when the gasket is flat and not looking like a pretzel. New seals for bolts. Feel this is very important. So is cleaning up the area that they go to. Seals go into a clean area and bolts go in you have no problems torquing the valve cover properly. Smooth clean operation. Anything else and you're gambling for a leak later on or the infamous bend in the corner. Some will not agree but I hate leaks. Last time i did a valve clearance check and did the same. 25,000 miles later and no leaks. Works for me.

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
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Got about a hour in and started to rain. Did do a valve clearance check and nailed the math. All intake setting at 11MM to 12MM Exhaust setting at 16MM all the way. Very happy with that. IMG_0703.JPG IMG_0702.JPG All cleaned up and ready for in the morning. IMG_0704.JPG New valve cover gasket has been setting between to boards for about a week and is laying flat. Makes the installation a lot easier when the gasket is flat and not looking like a pretzel. IMG_0705.JPG New seals for bolts. Feel this is very important. So is cleaning up the area that they go to. Seals go into a clean area and bolts go in you have no problems torquing the valve cover properly. Smooth clean operation. Anything else and your gambling for a leak later on or the infamous bend in the corner. Some will not agree but I hate leaks. Last time i did a valve clearance check and did the same. 25,000 miles later and no leaks. Works for me:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
I shall heed sir's advice - as I think I will have to do that particular job soon-ish.
 
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Great day weather could not be any better. 72 to 75 degrees at 100% humidity. Loving it. Valve cover is on. IMG_0716.JPG Taking a break while all this info is fresh in the head and not screwed up by beer. IMG_0706.JPG First off the manual says to place gasket on valve cover. I place it on the bike. IMG_0707.JPG IMG_0709.JPG The D sections are the only place that get silicone sealant. Two in front and two in the back. Lot of fancy talk about sealants but that is about it. Key objective is use a silicone base and use a small amount. Then i give all four D sections a small tap with a wood towel to insure they seat correctly. Straight up and down no sideways or off to one side. Very important. Then we go back and double check that gasket is seated properly. Lip on gasket has to be in correct position before you slide the cover on. IMG_0710.JPG Camshaft cover screw seals go in with steel side facing up. Very important. Place a small amount of engine oil on inner side of seal. Very important. Then take cover from the throttle side and place in position. Any other way and your gonna take the chance of knocking the spark plug seals out of place. You knock them out of place it will leak on the oil reserve side later on. Weep holes. IMG_0711.JPG Clean the thread areas really well. One drop of blue locktite no more or less at end of threads. Now HAND tighten camshaft cover bolts. Do not try this with a wrench you will screw it up. Takes a bit and you have to walk it around a few times to get it HAND tight. Now here is the secret to getting her done right. Manually says to tighten progressively and evenly to 12NM. Some real slow country music playing and a few beers makes this painful operation almost enjoyable. IMG_0713.JPG Indeed increments of 2NM following sequence shown in Manual. This is what separates the leak at under 1,000 miles vice the leak free gasket at 25,000 miles. IMG_0714.JPG The bastard bolt no 8 in the manual. Hard to get to but if you release the brake cables you can get to it with a torque wrench. Considering we are talking the area of the infamous bulge this is very important. Other than the man in the tin shed would take the time to do the job correctly. You think your ace mechanic at a dealership will take the time for this operation your gambling. Their idea of progressively is 6Nm to twelve. If that. One fat rubber seal takes time. 10Nm to Twelve is just a slow short turn on all the bolts if done correctly. Really hope this helps out a few folks. If even one of you all has a good day after a few thousand miles with no leaks I'll be a happy camper. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup: No expert by any means but do have a lot of common sense :laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:
 
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