Working on an Intake project

Staying as far away as I can from K&N RX filters, not because of function or quality, because $85 each is straight "what will the market bear" pricing, and I refuse to participate.
That just sounds anti-American. And we must be related.

What about getting the "Cobba" intake 3D printed.
 
That just sounds anti-American. And we must be related.

What about getting the "Cobba" intake 3D printed.
Currently chewing on that in my head, I've started a few drawings that were somewhat similar.

The first thing I need to get hammered down on a dyno:

Open TB vs TB with the PX-500 stacks, is there any difference in power band? Once I have the actual numbers on that it'll significantly inform potential designs.

Airfilter selection I am going to leave out of the testing and test the designs open on the dyno so I can see what effect shape and length are having without the influence of differing media as a variable.
 
So, will you have to retune, when your sort out your PX black magic, buggery, Claviger, or will it be more of a simple TuneECU readjustment?
 
Good question, all depends on resonances, if I don't hit any resonance frequencies it'll be a slight fueling adjustment across the board, if it hits a resonance it'll be a bigger change in a certain window.
 
So, no need for a full dyno retune. Just source and select new values provided in available TuneECU tables?
 
Ill be making adjustments required in PC-V as required, trying to quit flashing my ECU lol, they don't have unlimited flashing life, and I suspect I'm about at around 250-300 flashes now.

Ultimately, what I'm hoping for is that the revised design offers multiple improvements vs open filters like 4040/1770/ramair.
1: Provides slightly cooler air at speed by not pulling from behind the radiator
2: Provides some benefit by acting as a plenum
3: Provides some benefit of higher pressure air to the valves when compared to an open filter (which is naturally in a low pressure state in moving air).
4: Looks sweet as hell while doing the above :p
5: Bonus benefit: It'll slightly quite my induction noise (it farking crazy loud, at 100mph when I roll open the loudest thing, over wind, exhaust, anything else is induction)

Sadly number 1 and 3 will not be apparent on a dyno, but, will show on the track. I know my bike weight, my weight, and will know the power level on the dyno, so I can predict trap speed. If I achieve higher traps than predicted I know the positive pressure effect makes a difference.

Last year's 136mph traps were exactly matched to the power I made on Nels dyno at 2WDW, for a 940lb bike, which is what it weights with me and fuel added on.
 
Ill be making adjustments required in PC-V as required, trying to quit flashing my ECU lol, they don't have unlimited flashing life, and I suspect I'm about at around 250-300 flashes now.

Ultimately, what I'm hoping for is that the revised design offers multiple improvements vs open filters like 4040/1770/ramair.
1: Provides slightly cooler air at speed by not pulling from behind the radiator
2: Provides some benefit by acting as a plenum
3: Provides some benefit of higher pressure air to the valves when compared to an open filter (which is naturally in a low pressure state in moving air).
4: Looks sweet as hell while doing the above :p
5: Bonus benefit: It'll slightly quite my induction noise (it farking crazy loud, at 100mph when I roll open the loudest thing, over wind, exhaust, anything else is induction)

Sadly number 1 and 3 will not be apparent on a dyno, but, will show on the track. I know my bike weight, my weight, and will know the power level on the dyno, so I can predict trap speed. If I achieve higher traps than predicted I know the positive pressure effect makes a difference.

Last year's 136mph traps were exactly matched to the power I made on Nels dyno at 2WDW, for a 940lb bike, which is what it weights with me and fuel added on.
#3) Wouldn't that cause a lean condition at speed?
 
Test print is gorgeous!! Puts the filter exactly where I wanted it.

I think I’m going to anneal it as a test piece and see it will hold up after annealing to sustained 120c temps in the oven without going all soft. If it does I’ll be using this material or PETG.

This one needs a layer of fiberglass on the outside for strength because it was a test print it’s thin. It’s 0.6mm smaller inner diameter than the intake of the TB, and only 0.1mm smaller than my CAD drawing called for, great print!!

I wanted to make sure it was smaller so I could sand it to match instead of being too big and then being trash.

If annealing works, I’ll be making it a bit thicker so no fiberglass needed and it’ll be done deal, at which point I may entertain building a complete bolt on setup for sale to those interested (very very minimal cost over raw materials cost).
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