Actually you did as Mr. Frazier is the only man I know that has done it on a Rocket. I just had a idea in my mind it could be done. But didn't inform him that he would be the first man. (Didn't want to scare him off)
So now y'all know we have another Rocket Scientist among us
I did it that way when I replaced the torsion shaft bearings. I think albertaduke did his the same way. If I remember right you will have to remove the front fender for clearance for the motor to angle enough . The headers can be left on.
It is interesting that this topic came up today because I am in the midst of planning a stator replacement on my '08 R3T. I did the "Lifting Rear Frame" search and didn't find much help. I guess when I get started I will ask for help as I go. I am in the planning stages right now so it will be a week or two before I actually get started on the project. I need to make a few changes to the garage and take care of some other stuff first. I will say that I think I will be looking at the third picture in Kevin's previous post (#2 in this thread) a lot.
I did it that way when I replaced the torsion shaft bearings. I think albertaduke did his the same way. If I remember right you will have to remove the front fender for clearance for the motor to angle enough . The headers can be left on.
The stator is out of the 2005 basket case I am working on. I would like to test it before reinstalling. How is this done in simple terms an old guy can understand ?
1. Place an ohm meter across any one of the 3 wires coming out of the stator and the casement frame. If it shows any continuity, it needs replacing/repairing.
2. Visual check. Any signs of burnt wiring.... see 1 above.
The stator is out of the 2005 basket case I am working on. I would like to test it before reinstalling. How is this done in simple terms an old guy can understand ?
Mine made it 10 years, I think actually there are few failures when I researched this. Ken also explains in detail the rockets stator issues, (cooling of and other factors) in a thread I will try to find this weekend and post.
Gents, the casement that the copper stator windings are wrapped around is the ground. That's what is attached to the block of the engine. The windings themselves need to be isolated from this. If not, then you effectively have 'shorted' the stator resulting in some of the current generated travelling to ground/casement (burning the coil) instead of through one of the 3 insulated wires/phases to the regulator/rectifier.