Stainless micromesh reusable oil Filter


Retired and loving it!
Thread starter
Feb 18, 2016
Duffy, Canberra, ACT, AUSTRALIA
R3 Roadster,Sprint ST 1050 ABS, BMW R100RS sidecar
From the guru's source for Rocket IIIs and modern Triumphs
These Oil Filters
have M20x1.5 threads,
14 psi by-pass valve,
anti-drain back valve,
2.3" O.D. gasket
2.5" to 3.5" long.
If you have the room, I recommend the longer filters.

Purolator has changed their filters from a concave to a convex fitting surface, so they no longer seal on some motorcycles.

Motorcycle Filters​

  • AC Delco PF2135
  • AMSOil SMF103
  • Carquest 85358
  • AC Delco PF2135
  • FRAM PH6017A
  • Honda 15410-MCJ-000
  • K&N KN-204, about $13. Metric nut on end for easy removal.
  • Mobil M1MC-134
  • NAPA Gold 1358
  • Purolator ML16817. Imported, not made by Purolator.
  • STP SMO 17
  • WIX 51358
Recommended filters.
All have superior filtering.

About 2.5 inches long.​

  • Purolator One PL14612, about $6.
  • Mobil M1-108, about $12.
     Made by Champion.
  • Bosch 3300, about $6.
     Made by Champion.
  • Wal-Mart SuperTech ST6607
     Made by Champion.
  • HKS 52009-AK005, About $35.
     Not quite as good at filtering as those above, but very low drag on the oil. Used by all serious racing teams. In racing applications should be changed every 5-15 hours.

About 3.25 inches long.​

  • Purolator One PL14610, about $6.
  • Purolator Boss PBL14610.
  • Royal Purple 10-2808.
  • Mobil 1 M1-110, about $10.
     Made by Champion.
  • Mobil M1MC-134
  • Bosch 3323, about $6.
     Made By Champion.
  • WalMart SuperTech ST7317,
     about $2. Made by Champion.

Automobile Filters,
about 2.5 inches long.​

  • AC Delco PF1237
  • Baldwin B1400
  • Firestone TF2876
  • Hastings LF113
  • NAPA Gold 1365
  • Purolator L14612
  • STP S-02876
  • WalMart SuperTech ST6607
  • WIX 51365

Automobile Filters,
about 3.25 inches long.​

  • AC Delco PF-2057
  • Auto Pro 2356
  • Autopride CF240AP
  • Baldwin B1402
  • Carquest 85356
  • Carquest Red B4620
  • Casite CF240
  • Castrol 7317
  • Champion Labs Ph2867
  • Defense Filters Dl7317
  • Deutsch D-370
  • Federated Filters LF240F
  • Fram Double Guard DG7317
  • Fram PH7317

Automobile Filters,
about 3.25 inches long.​

  • Fram Tough Guard TG7317
  • Fram Xtra Guard XG7317
  • Group 7 V4610
  • Group 7 V4620
  • Hastings LF240
  • Mighty M4612
  • Millard ML-3593
  • Motorcraft Long Life FL-821
  • Napa FIL1356
  • Napa Gold 1356
  • Parts Plus PH2867
  • Pennzoil PZ-109
  • Penske 7317
  • Powerflo SL14610
  • Powerflo SL14620
  • Pro Gauge PGO-4620
  • Pro Tec 164
  • Promotive PH4610
  • Pronto PO3593A
  • Purolator L14610
  • Service Champ OF-4622
  • Shell SH48
  • Shell SH529
  • Stp S-02867.
  • Valvoline VO50
  • Warner PH2867
  • Wix 51356


Retired and loving it!
Thread starter
Feb 18, 2016
Duffy, Canberra, ACT, AUSTRALIA
R3 Roadster,Sprint ST 1050 ABS, BMW R100RS sidecar
So it will still look cool on the desk and be a messy use investigative tool or just my next custom coffee perculator! ;):roll::roll:.



Road Therapy...
May 26, 2014
Drifting between Las Vegas, NV and Tucson, AZ...
"Fiona" my '14 R3T & "Delilah" my '16 V-Rod Muscle
I don't think they filter down to the same level as paper filters?
My filter from AMSOIL states 20-microns. The FLO states 35-microns. How important that difference is in reality (not product promotion) I am not smart enough right now to know. The magnet is a plus. The concept of cooling fins is a plus. I may have to research further before my next oil change.


.060 Over
Mar 5, 2021
2015 Rocket roadster
my uneducated guess/assumption would be that as soon as the filter micron rating becomes too low the bypass valve will be in use sooner leading to no filtering at all.


Top Fuel
Nov 2, 2013
Timmins, Ontario
2012 Rocket Roadster
Personally guys, I would stick to a premium paper element type oil filter. The reasons for this would be convenience (no need to spend time cleaning) and my main concern, being able to clean the stainless mesh completely of contaminants.
I'd hate to think that my cleaning prowess might cause more contamination than what I'm trying to remove. Think about it, you're placing a screen which is contaminated on one side with oily particles, in a solution (which rapidly becomes contaminated) allowing that grime/particles to get into the other side of the filter.... then you place it back in your engine??? It might look clean but....

In the mining industry we performed oil analysis on literally everything, (engines, hydraulic tanks, differentials etc). We had over 230 pieces of heavy equipment. One got to see how much contamination remained in a system after a service. We used particle analysis measuring machines for quick tests in the shop. We would often plug in portable filter carts to cycle the oil in the various hydraulic tanks to remove dirt, down to a specific level. We used paper element type filters for this. Fresh oil was often more contaminated than the oil in our hydraulic systems so it was pumped from storage through a filter into our engines/hydraulic tanks etc. The storage tanks that held our oil had kidney loop filtration to keep the oil clean. All dispensing nozzles where rigged with filters. Even the breathers on any engine/hydraulic tanks/differentials were equipped with desiccant style breather elements to keep airborne dust and moisture from entering the tank. We also equipped our engines with spinner type centrifugal oil filters that spun the oil. It was amazing to see the amount of sludge/soot that would line the wall of the centrifugal filter after several hundred hours of use. Our hydraulic and engine component life went up dramatically and all these filters were equipped with premium metal reinforced paper filter type elements which were disposed of, not cleaned.