RAD be PRETTY, but . . .

[1olbull]

He used my die grinder to elongate the holes - pretty simple actually.

 

[Claviger]

Ok here goes, sorry if I miss anything, I’ll try not to.

1: Put down a drip pan under the water pump.
2: Remove only the top of the three bolts on the water pump to drain it. Once flowing remove radiator cap to speed it up.
3: Remove all shrouds and mesh screen.
4: Remove lower radiator hose going to water pump.
5: Reinstall top water pump bolt.
6: Remove top two bolts holding radiator to frame.
7: Remove upper radiator hose from radiator. Leave engine side alone.
8: Remove small hose on throttle side of bike on back side of radiator (thermostat bypass hose). Leave engine side alone.
9: Remove two bolts at top of fan securing it to radiator and one on the bottom holding fan to radiator.
10: Remove over flow hose from radiator just below rad cap.
11: Remove bottom mount bolt. 8mm socket and 18” or great extension is your friend.
12: Remove rad from bike.
13: Have a beer.

14: Reverse process, except start with upper radiator hose so it hangs from it, it beats trying to hold it in place while doing all the mounting work. Once radiator is fully mounted proceed to step -5.

15: Remove 10mm Bolt from above Thermostat house.
16: Level bike.
17: Fill radiator until water flows out of 10mm hole above thermostat housing.
18: Reinstal 10mm Bolt.
19: start bike with cap off and level. Fill radiator full.
20: Install radiator cap.

21: Ride on!

 

[Idaho Red Rocket 3]

Steve please post a link to your new radiator.

Is this radiator made with more or the same capacity ?

 

[Grumpy Ole Codger]

Ok here goes, sorry if I miss anything, I’ll try not to.

1: Put down a drip pan under the water pump.
2: Remove only the top of the three bolts on the water pump to drain it. Once flowing remove radiator cap to speed it up.
3: Remove all shrouds and mesh screen.
4: Remove lower radiator hose going to water pump.
5: Reinstall top water pump bolt.
6: Remove top two bolts holding radiator to frame.
7: Remove upper radiator hose from radiator. Leave engine side alone.
8: Remove small hose on throttle side of bike on back side of radiator (thermostat bypass hose). Leave engine side alone.
9: Remove two bolts at top of fan securing it to radiator and one on the bottom holding fan to radiator.
10: Remove over flow hose from radiator just below rad cap.
11: Remove bottom mount bolt. 8mm socket and 18” or great extension is your friend.
12: Remove rad from bike.
13: Have a beer.

14: Reverse process, except start with upper radiator hose so it hangs from it, it beats trying to hold it in place while doing all the mounting work. Once radiator is fully mounted proceed to step -5.

15: Remove 10mm Bolt from above Thermostat house.
16: Level bike.
17: Fill radiator until water flows out of 10mm hole above thermostat housing.
18: Reinstal 10mm Bolt.
19: start bike with cap off and level. Fill radiator full.
20: Install radiator cap.

21: Ride on!

Rob, if you were closer I'd thank you personally

 

[1olbull]

Steve please post a link to your new radiator.

Is this radiator made with more or the same capacity ?

I did, Bill, in post #13.
Same capacity - 3 quarts give or take.
Here it tis again, Amigo:
FOR TRIUMPH ROCKET 3 2008 ALUMINUM RACING RADIATOR 763383173753 | eBay

 

[sonny]

Iodized and painted would be a good idea. Aluminum does not rust but all the same. Oxidation will take place in time. Not much of a issue but would extend fin life.

 

[sonny]

Steve please post a link to your new radiator.

Is this radiator made with more or the same capacity ?

It is not so much the capacity but the construction of the radiator. Looking at the core is amazing. The core is very similar to the cores found on aircraft Heat exchangers. Would not be surprised one bit if they did not purchase the core from such a place that fabricates such items for aircraft. The welding is sufficient but not very pretty. Kind of picky in that department. GO FIGURE

 

[Claviger]

Rob, you'll have to give us a step by step guide to how you fitted this, shrouds and all. You keep forgetting that there are an awful lot of us that simply do not have the ability or intellect to carry out your 'simple' tasks..!! I suppose the alternative is, you could come and fit it for me on your upcoming World Tour of Rocket tuning

It is not so much the capacity but the construction of the radiator. Looking at the core is amazing. The core is very similar to the cores found on aircraft Heat exchangers. Would not be surprised one bit if they did not purchase the core from such a place that fabricates such items for aircraft. The welding is sufficient but not very pretty. Kind of picky in that department. GO FIGURE

For those of us that don’t weld, it seems pretty good. I know you and Paul have higher standards

Seriously, I’ll be putting the black version on Mufasa. It just seems better built than the stocker.

 

[sonny]

Yes indeed.

 

[scot in exile]

The new rad is installed!
Rob @Claviger did the work and will post some pix of the rad mounted before and after the cover mount.
Rob did a "field-pressure test" of the new rad (a mouth to inlet blow job) of the new rad - no problems - no leaks.
The @hogweed stainless cover fit perfectly at the top two mounts, but required some elongating of the four side mount holes - easy peasy.

$270 for a lighter aluminum rad versus the $614.48 OEM is a no brainer IMHO.

Warp would have been your man as he can suck a golf ball thru a garden hose.