progressive suspension scrapping pegs

[GarrisonMatt]

So 2 weeks ago I purchased R3R. Bike was stock other than having progressive suspension. I believe that the previous owner said it was lowered an inch. Here is my issue....I have rode 350 miles in the last 2 weeks and I have scrapped the pegs around a few corners in town. I also went up into a cannon and scrapped the crap out of both sides of the foot pegs. I physically can push it much further but I am afraid ill scape other things on the bike. I do ride aggressively but I didn't think I would scrape near as much as I am.

I do have the stock suspension and can put it back on. does anyone else have the issue with stock suspension or is it just because it is lowered an inch?

 

[Mittzy]

Of only will it scrape pegs but you run the risk of rubbing through your wiring under rear fender with your tyre (I know this first hand) go back to standard height, if anything but a lower seat (if short legged like me) if not short you could install longer ones. Stock suspension is ok- ish but depends on what you want

 

[Tripps]

Definitely will scrape sooner if lowered.

 

[Fingers]

Which end is lowered or both?

 

[GarrisonMatt]

Which end is lowered or both?

both are lowered, do you think it will make a difference if I only put the front back to stock?

 

[warp9.9]

Put the rear back to stock length and if you don't have a exedra max on the rear try one next tire. 240/55/r16

 

[mr hunt]

What do your chicken strips look like?

If you have the standard 150 section up front you will NOT use the last inch of rubber on either side. The rear is a different story - with stock suspension setup you can run right to the edge of the 240's. I think this is a far better gauge for lean angle ... If you roll off the edge of the rear you've leaned too far (which is supposed to 35°).

LHS peg rail will scrape before you run out rubber and the RHS exhaust heat sheild will touch down after the the peg has worn.

I'd put the stock boingers back on the rear (4 bolts and 5mins work) and see what happens...good luck

 

[TURBO200R4]

i have stock springs on rear with excedra and 140 on front stock springs on front (weak from 34000 miles) drags on a sharp corner more than normal.
i think i would prefer the progressive up front. and will decide which front tire to buy when this one is worn out.

 

[Idaho Red Rocket 3]

The lowered front helps handling and turn in. That can also be achieved by changing the front tire to 140/75R17 Avon Cobra. Now as far as the scraping it could be from the lowered rear, or it could be you are a really good rider and are taking it to the lean angle limit. Now that can be increased with a little rider technique that has you leaning out beyond the bike like racers do on the track. While riding aggressively with the amount of weight and tire size you need to really haunch down and lean your body out over the road like a racer does on the track. It would also help if the rear shocks were at the full length of 12.5 inches. No the OEM rear shocks are not very good. You need something like the Progressive 430, 440, 444 shocks to improve the handling. Also putting progressive front springs and 7 W fork oil make a big difference too. If your riding weight is near or over 220 lbs the rear shocks need the heavy duty springs.

 

[scot in exile]

Bike has two points of traction front wheel and rear wheel when point C enters the equation bad things can happen do not know your riding experience but if you like going in so hard that you are scrapping a day at the track would be most helpful.
As said if the bike has been lowered that does not help matters much.