Are progressive fork springs worth the $

yep...Progressives with grade 7 oil which is heavier than the stock oil will stiffen the front end up nicely...well worth it. If you are doing it yourself make sure you have the proper tools. We used a cable tie to slide down the tube to act as a dip stick prior to removing the old springs and oil. This way we could replace the oil to the correct level. The Progressive springs are coiled tighter and we thought may alter the amount of oil going back in...this is why we took a level mark rather than a quantity.
 
I paid a tech. Rick @ BMW of Pasadena has tools and experience. There are many small details to that job. I changed the fork bearings at the same time. The bike required a take back after a few hunderd miles to tweak the fork alignment. It was worth covering his fees.
 
Don't bother with Progressives as they are too soft (about 0.85) for the R3. Get straight rate springs from Race Tech or other mfg. with a rate of 1.1 to 1.2. Then adjust the spacer length to get about 25% of the total travel (about 25mm) in settle with you on the bike. Use 7.5w to 10w oil and fill 10 to 15mm higher than stock. This will transform the front end. Not as good as quality internals such as Maxton, but as good as practical with the stock damper rod.
 
Don't bother with Progressives as they are too soft (about 0.85) for the R3. Get straight rate springs from Race Tech or other mfg. with a rate of 1.1 to 1.2. Then adjust the spacer length to get about 25% of the total travel (about 25mm) in settle with you on the bike. Use 7.5w to 10w oil and fill 10 to 15mm higher than stock. This will transform the front end. Not as good as quality internals such as Maxton, but as good as practical with the stock damper rod.
Even better yet 😎
 
Don't bother with Progressives as they are too soft (about 0.85) for the R3. Get straight rate springs from Race Tech or other mfg. with a rate of 1.1 to 1.2. Then adjust the spacer length to get about 25% of the total travel (about 25mm) in settle with you on the bike. Use 7.5w to 10w oil and fill 10 to 15mm higher than stock. This will transform the front end. Not as good as quality internals such as Maxton, but as good as practical with the stock damper rod.
I told you it could get technical. Also there is a PVC spacer somewhere in the tubes that plays a role in the situation. The amount of air left above the oil level seems to be a factor too. There are a few nice posts on UTube on suspension adjustments. Your riding style and level of expertise as well as the kind'a roads you are going to ride on are also a factor. Last but not east, your budget and availability of an expert or your expertise are factors. I personally limited my front end work to inflating and changing the front tyre and keeping the calipers rims and tubes clean. Probably messed that up too.
 
Special tools? I used ratcheting tie down straps as compressors. Just be careful and think it thru
i didnt say Special tools...i said proper tools....as you know that spring will let go if its not held down.....we are both on the same page tho...i like your idea of the tiedowns.
 
Back
Top