Poor Man's Performance

[barbagris]

If you want it low cost, you don´t need KNs or Ramair.
Just open the airbox in the area above the throttle bodys and close it with filter foam.

Can be done.

BUT you need to get the Air Temp Sensor into the airflow and this is hard to do well on the outer plenum.

Plenum inside view

• barbagris
• Jul 11, 2013

Filter Plenum

This solution will also benefit HUGELY from the Oz-Claw. It's almost impossible to add a heat wall to block undertank to plenum airflow too.

 

[Deuce5150]

Lots of good info here. Thanks.

I think for now I am going to settle on unlocking the first three gears with TuneECU and a new filter of some sort.

I've been reading up on many different options for the air filter. I'd like to keep the bear claw as is and make sure that everything can be reversible. Cutting anything up scares me. I'm comfortable with bolting and unbolting.

So, as far as a new air filter goes, here are the options I was pondering:

1 - A single K&N RU-5111 under the tank with a K&N 62-1340 to replace the tube from the crankcase to the airbox. I found this one here: Undertank K&N | R3Owners

2 - Triple K&N RU-2780's under the bearclaw with the same K&N 62-1340 on the crankcase. Pull out the superfluous plumbing. I've read conflicting reports on torque loss and whistling noises.

3 - A Ramair system under the claw with I assume the same K&N 62-1340. Remove extra plumbing. I've read conflicting reports of it breaking where it attaches to the throttle body

4 - A single K&N TB-2204 under the seat with just the new unrestricted tune. Don't touch the factory plumbing and therefore don't ruin my bike.

Sorry to hammer on with questions that have been repeatedly asked for a decade now, but can you explain to my little brain which option would likely be best for me? I know that there won't really be much in gains until I ditch the catalytic converter and get a new header/exhaust, but at the very least I can turn some ratchets, plug in the computer and feel cool that I have a "custom" bike.

 

[dougl]

Lots of good info here. Thanks.

I think for now I am going to settle on unlocking the first three gears with TuneECU and a new filter of some sort.

I've been reading up on many different options for the air filter. I'd like to keep the bear claw as is and make sure that everything can be reversible. Cutting anything up scares me. I'm comfortable with bolting and unbolting.

So, as far as a new air filter goes, here are the options I was pondering:

1 - A single K&N RU-5111 under the tank with a K&N 62-1340 to replace the tube from the crankcase to the airbox. I found this one here: Undertank K&N | R3Owners

2 - Triple K&N RU-2780's under the bearclaw with the same K&N 62-1340 on the crankcase. Pull out the superfluous plumbing. I've read conflicting reports on torque loss and whistling noises.

3 - A Ramair system under the claw with I assume the same K&N 62-1340. Remove extra plumbing. I've read conflicting reports of it breaking where it attaches to the throttle body

4 - A single K&N TB-2204 under the seat with just the new unrestricted tune. Don't touch the factory plumbing and therefore don't ruin my bike.

Sorry to hammer on with questions that have been repeatedly asked for a decade now, but can you explain to my little brain which option would likely be best for me? I know that there won't really be much in gains until I ditch the catalytic converter and get a new header/exhaust, but at the very least I can turn some ratchets, plug in the computer and feel cool that I have a "custom" bike.

If you're going to keep the under sear filter, don't disconnect the crank case from the air box. Also, substituting the under seat K&N doesn't require retuning. The under tank filter is a waste of time. Triple 2780's is a simple way to go and they fit under the claw. They require retuning.

 

[TURBO200R4]

tors,bypass,oem filter=pretty daam fast. i can take the tires off of mine but i weigh 160.

 

[idk]

The under-seat and under-tank filters will give you no benefit, apart from being able to clean the filters. The under-seat filter will probably draw warmer air than any other option, so you may end up losing power in certain circumstances. The triple K&N filters are good, but I would do the RamAir if I were doing it again - and I may end up getting one anyway. With the RamAir you get the filter for the breather, and also you are able to put the air temp sensor where it should be - where the air that you are using is. The early problems with fitment seem to have been resolved with the new, upgraded filters.

 

[Claviger]

Ramair v2, doesn't split at mounting point. Also a nice tidy all inclusive kit that includes the crank case breather. Personally the simplicity of buying a kit vs piecing it together is why I bought it.

Be warned, I had my stock bike dynod, then put on 2780s, and had it dynod, lost power everywhere, don't do it until you do exhaust, it won't help!!

More power = TuneECU to remove the emasculated 1st and 2nd gear timing table.

Next step is exhaust. Anything is better than stock, except zard, run far and fast from zard.

After that it's time for internals, really only 2 choices, carpenter racing or nev lush.

Beyond that, see TTS supercharging or a turbo kit.

 

[Stillserving]

I'm the same boat for now on mods with my '17 R3R

Based on Claviger's post it looks like
Step 1 - exhaust
Step 2 - Ramair
Step 3 - Re-tune

With the '17, the cats are in the pipes right? so slip-ons would get rid of the cats?

 

[IMFASTTOO]

It sounds good to me. However, the biggest power gain is from removing the Catbox, and it will also increase the noise a bit - but not too much. The TORS add a bit more power, but not that much - and a lot more noise. I don't know that many people have had much success with gaining power by drilling the OEM pipes, so you may want to think about that a bit before you do it. Sometime you can get used TORs fairly cheap, so that may be an option.

I have triple filters, but if I were doing it again I would get the RamAir.

I have a tune for triple filters, cat delete, and stock pipes when you need it. It should work for RamAir as well, although it may be a bit lean. I'm sure @HansO could help you with that though, if you ask him nicely.

FORGET it remove the complete exhaust from the header back and install a free flowing slip on muffler or straight pipe if you want a louder exhaust that saves a lot of weight and gives you the most HP for the small aount of money spent and youll have a great looking 3 into exhaust no need to spend big bucks its the best option for little money spent. I use that setup on my 09 CLASSIC and love it .

 

[Tom Berberg]

FORGET it remove the complete exhaust from the header back and install a free flowing slip on muffler or straight pipe if you want a louder exhaust that saves a lot of weight and gives you the most HP for the small aount of money spent and youll have a great looking 3 into exhaust no need to spend big bucks its the best option for little money spent. I use that setup on my 09 CLASSIC and love it .

Hi
Do yoy have any pics of your exhaust

 

[barbagris]

I'm the same boat for now on mods with my '17 R3R

Based on Claviger's post it looks like
Step 1 - exhaust
Step 2 - Ramair
Step 3 - Re-tune

With the '17, the cats are in the pipes right? so slip-ons would get rid of the cats?

Yup - but do them all at once . If you don't have easy access to a tuner - then consider a Power Commander plus Autotune and ask HansO for maps. And heed Arts comment on the exhaust headers - change them.

Download and familiarize yourself with Tune ECU. Even if you use a PC5 you'll need it.