Help please, 08 R3T not starting

Jester 76 said:

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Claviger said:

Yup, crank is 180 out of phase with the cams.

Will never start like that It will also give good compression and sound appear right, nothing will collide it just wont run.

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Jester 76 said:

Just checked compression and only have 15 psi on all cylinders, zero with the throttle open (secondaries at 95%). I left all the other plugs in and disconnected the coil primaries per direction on other threads. What did I screw up?

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Claviger said:

So we know its compression, how can you be at 15psi cranking?

Valves not closing (you've already eliminated this as a possible cause however).
...
Cams are way out of time.

If your valve clearances are in spec, then your valves are closing, at least well enough to register more than 15 psi. Cam Timing or not seated sparkplug are the two things I'd be checking first.

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Jester 76 said:

Well, I bent all of the intake valves but it doesn't look like there's any damage to the pistons or the exhaust valves. Heading to the machine shop now for a better assessment.

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Epic

Can only work with information given, and a key piece was missing: clearances before and after cam chain removal differed.

This is exactly why i spent a good bit of time figuring out how to do 1olbulls shims without undoing the cams.

I’m super curious how you bent them. At least the machine shop can fix it.

I'm not entirely sure how I bent them either, it apparently doesn't take much force to bend the 5 mm valve stems. There are two points of extra resistance when pulling the crank through due to actuating multiple sets of valves and I must have mistaken it. I guess the take away is to absolutely verify the positions of the pistons if the timing mark is missing.

I am fascinated anyone could assemble a motor with a part missing the timing marks. Two dots.

They are hard enough to see if one leaves on the engine cover, and this last go round, we removed the clutch cover (20 @8mm flange head bolts -- gasket is $10.00, or $18.00 shipped) to have a clear view of the crank and the two dots.

I didn't remove the cover the first time, and totally missed the dots, until @R-III-R Turbo posted his photos showing me "ah ha" for what to look.

I used a section of brass cleaning rod passed down through the empty spark plug hole and resting on the piston. Rotating the engine by hand via the 24mm nut on the crank, watching that rod reach the top, then looking down, the dots were there.

What is less obvious to me is which cycle it is - compression or overlap.

I got it wrong several times, and apparently, there is a fair amount of clearance in a stock motor.

^^^^

This is definitely a tale of cautionary woe. Anyone contemplating the removal of cams needs to read this thread several times to ensure things go back the way they are supposed to go. I know I will be building a tool to do my valve shims without removing the cams.

bob

Attention to detail.

It is always a plus to make sure the #1 piston is up (checking with a rod or screwdriver)
on the Rocket with piston at top and the arrows (on respective cam gears) lined up (pointed down) on the inside is compression stroke.
180 out the arrows would be on the outside pointed up. I don't think that you would use this info at any time.
As far as the timing marks are concerned it might be possible to put the crank pulley on backwards but i doubt it.