YSS Shock mod - risers

warp9.9 said:
Well the shock as the site say plus 10 over so all the way in should be stock and 10 mm adjustment to make them longer
Unless I'm not reading it right. Anyway I'm running a 18 inch 240 battle criuse h50 rear with 5 mm rise so its like having the 240/55/16 my front suspension is Ducati internals with high speed dampening and compression rebound adjustment and length.
20200128_212432.jpg


I carry a wrench with me but running the 140 battle cruise h50 front my fork length is typically 1/2" or so shorter then stock length for highway cruising and with a quick setting change on the the steering damper she is smooth as sill above 160.
20190815_173304.jpg

So in the twisties if I'm going to ride briskly I'm running usually about settong 4 on the damper and take about 2.5 to 3 turns out of the compression lowering the front end a wee bit more. If I start hearing the feelers screen to much I'll put a little more height in the in her ehen I get back at the trailer . Until then I'll just hang off a little more so she can stand up a little. There's times I kind of climb all around on her in the twisties :)

22,000 dollars for a new rocket and ya don't get a suspension like mine :D
Click to expand...

Awesome set up u have. Can I ask which model of Ducati did u use ? I never thought of using internals from other bike.
I like the idea of being able to vary the front end for different rides. I too, like to hang off if I see an opportunity (long fast bends). I added pegs to allow easier body movement.
Lots of options:) which is why I choose the R3 and not other less flexible power cruisers. I tend to agree about the new rocket, it is a lot of cash for a standard format bike, but I guess it has the new feel in its favour, for now.
 
BE VERY CAREFUL extending shocks on Shaft drive bikes. there is a risk of stressing the Hookes (UJ) joint and this can accelerate wear - I have seen the UJ wear on bikes with less power to tame and the result is catastrophic. Ideally the swing arm should be a linear extension of the gearbox output shaft when loaded. If it's angled - it's stressed.
 
Thanks barbaqris, this is on my list of concerns, I'll jack it up on the scissor jack and get a feel for the change in angle. I won't go past 13.5 inch (25mm over stock), as this seems to be the high mean use case and hopefully other riders would have reported issues.
I am also only 90KG in weight hence more likely to average a high ride height unless I dump pre-load.
Also, I'm only doing Air flow mods with no engine mods so not looking to go to much higher than stock, for me its about useable everywhere rather straight line acceleration (but i do love what folk do to their rides, very impressive).
I guess if I need to go higher it needs to be on the tyres.
One of the disadvantages of shaft VS chain.
I'm not reducing the front yet, just doing step by step.
Thanks again
 
Update
I put the shocks on with 25mm extension. Jacked up until back wheel off ground. Was able to get my fingers between swing arm and decat pipe (a good 10mm clearance). need to wait for weather to improve before I take out for a test.
Clearance is important to me for those opportunities to get a little air over hump bridges :)
 
warp9.9 said:
Well the shock as the site say plus 10 over so all the way in should be stock and 10 mm adjustment to make them longer
Unless I'm not reading it right. Anyway I'm running a 18 inch 240 battle criuse h50 rear with 5 mm rise so its like having the 240/55/16 my front suspension is Ducati internals with high speed dampening and compression rebound adjustment and length.
20200128_212432.jpg


I carry a wrench with me but running the 140 battle cruise h50 front my fork length is typically 1/2" or so shorter then stock length for highway cruising and with a quick setting change on the the steering damper she is smooth as sill above 160.
20190815_173304.jpg

So in the twisties if I'm going to ride briskly I'm running usually about settong 4 on the damper and take about 2.5 to 3 turns out of the compression lowering the front end a wee bit more. If I start hearing the feelers screen to much I'll put a little more height in the in her ehen I get back at the trailer . Until then I'll just hang off a little more so she can stand up a little. There's times I kind of climb all around on her in the twisties :)

22,000 dollars for a new rocket and ya don't get a suspension like mine :D
Click to expand...
.

Hey Warp I am also interested with what you did with your fork mod and what Ducati Model
Cartridge kit you used

Thanks
 
chrisw said:
Thanks barbaqris, this is on my list of concerns, I'll jack it up on the scissor jack and get a feel for the change in angle. I won't go past 13.5 inch (25mm over stock), as this seems to be the high mean use case and hopefully other riders would have reported issues.
I am also only 90KG in weight hence more likely to average a high ride height unless I dump pre-load.
Also, I'm only doing Air flow mods with no engine mods so not looking to go to much higher than stock, for me its about useable everywhere rather straight line acceleration (but i do love what folk do to their rides, very impressive).
I guess if I need to go higher it needs to be on the tyres.
One of the disadvantages of shaft VS chain.
I'm not reducing the front yet, just doing step by step.
Thanks again
Click to expand...
I run about 10-15mm over - Fournales shocks. You will gain a huge amount by getting decent front forks in - I have Maxtons. I'm 83Kg ish plus gear.
The best steering angle change you will get fitting an E-Max on the rear and a MARGINALLY undersized front. The Emax does something important in that it alters the relative axle heights and thus avoids the over-centre anti squat weight transfer moment as identified by @1olbull - The effect is immediate - you can get it to dive into corners. I ask also @Paul Bryant our Kiwi tyre shredder to jump in here too.

The wear and tear on UJ's is usually torque and less so HP -Correcting breathing will up the bottom end where Triumph tend to restrict for a shed load of reasons - NOISE mainly. I have shredded one on a 60bhp 1979 Guzzi. By loading it WRONGLY with my missus on the back. We were lucky - it sheared OPEN - I have seen what happens when the shear and lock. It 'urts.
 
An important factor of tuning shaft rear suspension is the MASSIVE un-sprung weight - You have to stop control that rear bevel box. One it starts moving TOO fast you're stuffed. It really takes progressive damping.
 
chrisw said:
Awesome set up u have. Can I ask which model of Ducati did u use ? I never thought of using internals from other bike.
I like the idea of being able to vary the front end for different rides. I too, like to hang off if I see an opportunity (long fast bends). I added pegs to allow easier body movement.
Lots of options:) which is why I choose the R3 and not other less flexible power cruisers. I tend to agree about the new rocket, it is a lot of cash for a standard format bike, but I guess it has the new feel in its favour, for now.
Click to expand...
My front suspension was custom I can not take any credit for them. I know traxion dynamics in Georgia des a replacement cartridge for the beast. What I want to try next is
C04TRI017 CARTRIDGE KIT MUPO LCRR TRIUMPH ROCKET III ROADSTER 97-11


Screenshot_20200129-090012_Chrome.jpg
 
chrisw said:
Looks like a tasty piece of kit. A bit pricey for me. Maybe when I exhausted other options :)
Click to expand...
Ya I would say top of the line. Anyway I can also see where as most people point out at the very least you need better springs in the front. So you can get rid of or limit the fork dive especially since you're quickening the steering. I got to spend a hour or so on 1k9's bike he had the 150 rear MICHELIN Pilot Power 5 in reverse on the front.. all I can say is its like night and day for sure and I will be loading a front rim up with one.
 
Last edited:

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