Valve Clearance.

sonny

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Been awhile since I have done this. Now the intake is .10 to .15 The .15 is a no go correct? If I can slide it in that means that we should replace the shim with a thicker one Correct? If I can not get the .10 in then we should go to a thinner shim Correct? Glad I bought the cam holder tool.Looks like we are going to need it. Same philosophy on exhaust only .15 to .20 Need some help.
 

sonny

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Somebody please :(:(:(:(:(:(:( One more question. The stock shims are marked are they not? Not pulling the cams today to many beers. Would rather do that with a clear head and rested. No need in sripping out a tork bolt. If they are not marked guess I will need to bring my calibers home from work.
 
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Idaho Red Rocket 3

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Sony if I remember right from doing mine during the winter of 15/16. Definitely bring home your caliper. The marking could be rubbed off. The intakes are to be between .10 and .15. In my mind .12/.13 is perfect. But .15 is certainly OK. Loose is better than tight. And .10 is on the tight side but is really OK too, but it is at the tightest it should be. So it may or may not tighten a little more before the next inspection. You have to decide if you are OK with that and how long until your next inspection will be done. Yes the same philosophy with the exhausts .15 to .20.

You are thinking right. The way to go is only remove the shims that need changing. You may find when you measure them with your caliper you can swap them around. I was able to swap mine around and only had to buy 1 shim. To prevent having to pull the cams and worry about getting them timed right and getting the ladder torqued correctly I used the Rocket Scientist valve depressor tool. You make it yourself. Also another tool you make yourself is a slightly ground down screwdriver. With Rocket Scientists tool I could depress the valve and get to the shims by myself. With the ground down screw driver I needed my son to help me.

2016-03-24 18.09.40.jpg
 

sonny

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First off thank you for the response. The way I remembered from a 2005 bonneville is that the exhaust gets tight with wear and the intake gets loose with wear. Using that philosophy plan on Replacing shims in accordance. My thoughts to .12 to .13 perfect for the intake and exhaust should roll about the same only at respected measurements. Been a long time since I dealt with the bucket and shim mode (HARLEY DAVIDSON) Got the Ramair yesterday and have a set of pipes coming from Paul so really need to get valves adjusted just right. I know that it can make a big difference on performance by getting your valves right, but it has been so long since we have dealt with this. Hydraulic valves are nice for the novice but not so much when it comes building a bike. I think back in the day the stock shims mark was worn off. Calibers from work are coming home for this job. Got the special tool from truimph for holding everything in place while removing the cams. With all the adjustments I have to do this is probably the best choice. Thanks again for your input. was not sure since it has been so long having to deal with this. Not *****ing just one happy camper that my brain cells still work. :):):):):):):):):)
 

sonny

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@warp9.9 @Rocket Scientist can either one of you take a look at this
Thanks skydog but I do not think warp9.9 will help. We got in a pissing contest and I do not think he likes me much. Pretty much got it figured out. Just got off the phone with facetime and in laws. Sorry about to be son in law thinks his new Harley is fast. Told him his bike is nice but small (anytime) His response was typical. Can not wait to blow his yuppy Harley away. They are typical all dressed up in their harley outfits. He thinks that his Harley will take My X off the line. Think again. #ell my Harley will smoke his much less the X. He is riding one of the new milwaukie motors around 107 cubic inch. Can not wait to get it together all the way around and just let the jerk eat my burnt rubber. :roll::roll::roll::roll::roll::roll::roll::roll::roll::roll::roll::roll::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool:
 

Triple Trouble

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Pretty sure that @warp9.9 isn't small minded enough to not help you out. As far as I know the Rocket valves usually only tighten up though I am sure they could go either way. Too tight is a problem because the valves must seat to dissipate heat or they will burn out. If you use the @Rocket Scientist method do not turn the engine over with a shim removed or you will chip the bucket( so I hear). Also use a micrometer if you need to measure the shims as calipers are not accurate enough.
 

sonny

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Past experiences and brain cells are going over mistakes in the past. Micrometers are more accurate. Thank you for the input. To tight and your screwed to loose and you loose.Happy medium and a couple of days thinking about it plus a second look at making the proper measurements can not hurt. Thanks again for the input. :):):):):)
 

Idaho Red Rocket 3

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My machinist son and I had that debate about what level of accuracy was needed for measuring these shims. He insisted it had to be a micrometer and I was going with a caliper would be enough. Well it turns out the caliper was all we needed. The shims are made in .05 mm increments and a good caliper like my Mitutoyo will do. Actually I even used my $17 Harbor Freight caliper in our micrometer/caliper comparison test. It measured quite accurately too.

FYI: The shims are basic Japanese design. They are 25 mm wide. You can go to your Triumph dealer or any of the big 4 Japanese bikes dealers. Yamaha and Honda may be the best choice. They can be new or used. Some dealers will just swap with you. If you need to buy one they should only cost $5 or $6.
 

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