TTS Supercharger Kits

More updates.

Ordered a new Clutch line and fitting a few days ago and they arrived yesterday.Today i fitted the new line and fitting and managed to bleed the system
without any leaks or problems.

On to the next job fitting the stage 2 radiator and intercooler.Thinking ahead i purchased a set of silicone hoses as the OEM rubber hoses were a
getting a little tired.
Ok so fitting the radiator we are told to bend the lower brackets outwards slightly....So i bent them out slight,then a bit more,then more,then more
thought then to have a quick look at fitting the intercooler.The first problem is the lower hose connection on the supercharger,i had to slightly cut a
notch in the foot peg rail so the hose fits properly.The radiator is going to have to move much further forward so the intercooler will clear the belt cover.
I might look at making some new brackets..Also looking at the cooler for the supercharger it touches the radiator core so that will need looking at.

Just a quick question for the guys that have fitted a stage 2 radiator...did your top hose still fit,was it long enough ?
 
+1 on all of that ant, and yes the top rad hose (the one from the thermostat or as i like to call it, the turbostat) is a bit on the short side for the TTS rad reach, but you will get away with it
 
Yes that the one.The OEM hose being rubber just about fits but the new silicone hose is not as flexible.

How did you get the lower part of radiator and intercooler out far enough to clear the belt cover.I am thinking about making a couple of
pieces to extend the brackets out...When you bend the brackets out that raises the fittings at the top.

I am thinking maybe if i fix the radiator and intercooler using top mounts and then allow the lower to swing out
as far enough to clear the belt cover....The left side lower bracket has the piece that fits into the rubber mount
on the radiator,there is no or very little adjustment.Perhaps the thing to do is cut the piece off and drill a hole
for a bolt......I know it sounds like a lot of messing about but i can see that bending out the brackets as they are
will give me enough to clear the belt cover.

Hope that all makes sense..
 
Hmm i wouldn't go cutting anything to do with the lower mounts.. not using them at all might work, I don't know, but the intercooler bolts to the rad at the top and bottom so it would be held steady enough i'd guess.

some pics that might help;

TTS Supercharger radiator mounts bent out

TTS Supercharger radiator mounts bent out

TTS Supercharger radiator mounts bent out

TTS Supercharger radiator mounts bent out

TTS Supercharger radiator and belt cover

TTS Supercharger radiator and belt cover

TTS Supercharger intercooler out of line with TTS radiator

TTS Supercharger intercooler out of line with TTS radiator

and re the supercharger to intercooler pipe, i see you cut a bit off your fotpeg engine bar/rail, i just beat it into place as below
(note i think the Roadster bars don't stick out as far as the 04-09 ones - i have chromed 08 ones put on mine minus the pegs, just to act as engine guard bars)

TTS Supercharger stage 2 pipe to intercooler clash with footpeg engine bar

Supercharger stage 2 pipe to intercooler clash with footpeg engine bar
 
Warp,i can see you have plenty of clearance there..Is the core the same size and just the position of the inlet that has been changed...It looks neat .

More updates.

I now think i know the reason why there is a problem fitting the top hose.

The inlet on the TTS radiator is 1/2 inch further to the right than the OEM radiator..

I don't know what is going on,surely all the radiators that TTS supply are going to have inlets and outlets in
the exact position as the OEM radiator if they are expecting the OEM hoses to fit correctly..


Waiting to hear from Richard..
 
So am i correct thinking that the super charger with a hydraulic clutch needs the original clutch lever to be cut off from the handlebar switch gear housing ? If so can someone tale a close up photo,cheers.
 

I'm sure you got very useful feedback from Richard lol but yeah the OEM hose barely makes it, a couple of mm from bottoming out on the rib on the thermostat pipe.
The samco hoses you have though are a lot stronger and also stiffer, don't know if they'll make it.


hogweed said:
So am i correct thinking that the super charger with a hydraulic clutch needs the original clutch lever to be cut off from the handlebar switch gear housing ? If so can someone tale a close up photo,cheers.
Click to expand...

You are correct hog ypu would have to hack up your OEM clutch lever housing to fit the hydraulic master cylinder and lever, they dont tell you that when buying though.
You also have to butcher up the clutch switch wiring and numerous other bits on bike to make the stuff fit.

I hacked mine but also machined it to become smooth and powdercoated for an OEM finish.
Have some pics, will post later when at home
 
Update...

With the help of a guy at Racebikebitz i have managed to get a longer hose from Samco which should arrive in a few weeks.

I have also been changing the fork springs for progressive and replacing the seals.

The clutch master cylinder that come with the kit has a chrome finish and looks a little out of place so i have replaced it with one from
a Triumph daytona..The old cable clutch lever has to be cut from the switch housing and dressed..

After emails and phone calls i am still waiting for a map from TTS...
 
ant said:
After emails and phone calls i am still waiting for a map from TTS...
Click to expand...


Some TTS maps now posted in resource section;

Resource Download - TTS Supercharger "Early" Rockets map (20222 Base)

Apparently a few fault codes (MAP sensor high voltage, idle stepper circuit malfunction, MAP sensor tube fault) have been disabled in it.
Probably a way of getting rid of the permanent engine management light you get if you toss the MAP sensor like the TTS instructions say to do. The instructions also say to toss the idle stepper but they're outdated, TTS now say don't toss the idl stepper
 
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