... the response I got denied that they had any knowledge of every having any ignition switch problems .....
Of course they WILL deny this
- to recognize it (publicly) means they would have to have a remedial plan.
But they most certainly KNOW about it and IMO there is irrefutable evidence that they knew:
- when the Roadster was first introduced, the power scheme for the headlights/key-switch was essentially identical to the Std/Classic; however they subsequently introduced a recall retrofit to those first-year Roadster models to have a relay installed to divert the headlight current out of the key-switch, by-passing it. And the change was permanently incorporated into Production models. So they cannot possibly suggest they simply re-thought their scheme there, that it was 'just a good idea'.
What is disappointing is that the same retrofit COULD have been extended to the Std/Classics - but it was NOT!
The Headlight Power circuit for the various models is shown above:
The scheme for the Std/Classic (AND indeed the Touring) is the same as the '2010' Roadster - Fuse 9 gets its current via the key-switch and therefor all the current for the headlights is supplied via the key-switch.
(the difference for the Touring is that it only powers a single headlight so the current is lower.)
The recall retrofit, adds a new relay (this is a dealer executed recall retro) and the current for the headlights now is no longer is sourced via the key-switch, but from an auxiliary fuse connected directly to the battery.
The bottom scheme for production bikes for 2011 is similar (subtle difference) - Fuse 5 comes from constant power in the OEM Fuse Panel, so no external fused supply is required; Fuse 8 comes via the key-switch but is now only providing low current.
The subtle difference between the recall retro and the later production incorporation is to do with the starter solenoid current: the starter solenoid actually draws about 9A!
When the starter is operated, the relay redirects current from the headlights to the starter (this is so that the headlights are turned off during starting process to remove that load for improved starting);
In the std, early Roadster AND recall version, that solenoid current comes through the key-switch;
On the 'late model' with factory wiring, the starter solenoid current does not come through the key-switch, but also from the constant power Fuse 5.
Now - the starter current is only of short duration and relatively infrequent use compared to the headlights; but the latest scheme is 'better' because it removes even that short duration load from the key-switch completely. (I have actually provided details elsewhere of how the retrofit could have just as easily mirrored the production scheme EXACTLY)
Back to your Touring:
As stated above, that scheme mirrors the Std/Classic and 'early' Roadster; so both the headlight current AND the Solenoid current have to be supplied via the key-switch;
but the important differentiation is that
a) the headlight current is significantly less - only one lamp
b) (not a differentiation but a clarification) the solenoid current is of infrequent application and of limited duration.
So that is essentially why the Touring Key-Switches don't exhibit failure compared to the high-rate failure of the classics.
Note that I would personally not classify the Touring scheme as a 'problem' so IMO not fiar to expect Triumph to accept any liability or provide any assistance on those models
However you can, if you want to improve the reliability further, employ one of the ideas proposed previously i.e. LED headlight, or the relay bypass I linked (which is essentially the same as the Roadster mod)
The relay just diverts the current; the LED will offer significant lighting improvement. The ultimate there would be the JW Speaker 8790 Adaptive - not inexpensive however at ~ $800!! The non-adaptive 8700 version is a much better value at ~ $250. (Chinese copies from about $60)
