HeR3tic
Living Legend
KMA, UGWUG. I'll try to produce an accurate representation without advertisement gimmicks. I too hope the Scotts does as represented.
Tricky Transmission?
- Thread starter RenegadeRoy
- Start date
Paul Hyland
Turbocharged
What about
I have the same problem with it going into first, but I also have a problem with it jumping into neutral from second. That sucks when you start to give it gas and it pops into neutral. I have also noticed when I and getting on it and shift from 1st to second it doesn't go. I end up high revving it no neutral light I let off the clutch and it revs. It really sucks when you’re trying to beat a ****** rocket to the bar so you don’t have to buy.:soapbox:
I have the same problem with it going into first, but I also have a problem with it jumping into neutral from second. That sucks when you start to give it gas and it pops into neutral. I have also noticed when I and getting on it and shift from 1st to second it doesn't go. I end up high revving it no neutral light I let off the clutch and it revs. It really sucks when you’re trying to beat a ****** rocket to the bar so you don’t have to buy.:soapbox:
Hondax
Nitrous
Sidecar Flip
Living Legend
I suggest a witness not related to you, with high credentials.
Hows about George Bush???
He knows about things dealing with oil and he's a respected person, I think.
Sidecar Flip
Living Legend
What a drag (it is getting older......)
Now on to the less mundane items:
I surmise that the clutch drags somewhat making the second to first downshift a little balky. Remember, it's a wet clutch so it has oil between the drive and driven plates and that oil actually causes the plates to drag a little. I can't equate that to Hondaxes JD. He's right though, JD's range shift is really balky. I used to look like a fool on my buddy's 4050 searching for a gear. In support of the JD, my Kubota has a hydraulic shuttle with a multi-plate wet clutch and it too, drags a little, making shifting of the main transmission a slow, deliberate shift even though the main box is synchronized.
The R3 clutch would drag more when new and less as it accumulates miles as the plate clearance loosens up somewhat. My '06 Classic is a little balky on the 2-1 downshift and I tend to double clutch it anyway. Double clutching effectively matches the transmission gear speed.
Now on to the less mundane items:
I surmise that the clutch drags somewhat making the second to first downshift a little balky. Remember, it's a wet clutch so it has oil between the drive and driven plates and that oil actually causes the plates to drag a little. I can't equate that to Hondaxes JD. He's right though, JD's range shift is really balky. I used to look like a fool on my buddy's 4050 searching for a gear. In support of the JD, my Kubota has a hydraulic shuttle with a multi-plate wet clutch and it too, drags a little, making shifting of the main transmission a slow, deliberate shift even though the main box is synchronized.
The R3 clutch would drag more when new and less as it accumulates miles as the plate clearance loosens up somewhat. My '06 Classic is a little balky on the 2-1 downshift and I tend to double clutch it anyway. Double clutching effectively matches the transmission gear speed.
bigern2300
.060 Over
I still experience some first gear troubles even after the repair i did. I've just learned to drop her in 1st, float the clutch a bit, and she locks right in. Or a person can just be a beast and stomp it into gear. I think it has to do with the shift detent design. It feels like there is a very long "throw" in the mechanisim that moves the gear selector fork. Possibly a design flaw or just something that was overlooked by the engineers. Also possible that rotating forces are working against correct gear engagement. I didn't notice anything unusual during the repair, even as i rowed it thru the gears with the cases apart. Bigern
Hi RenegadeRoy, I think it is a very common issue with a new machine to have difficulty in 1st gear with this bike.Everyone just about says the same thing and wonders if it is acting weird.I down shift when I slow down but stop in neutral with my eye in the rear view mirror until I see the vehicle behind stops.Just a bad lazy habitYou will get used to it and get a feel for the gears a bit better as the miles rack up.
You will get used to it and get a feel for the gears a bit better as the miles rack up.hard shifting
For what its worth; when I picked up my '05 the dealer said, "you'd better slightly slip the clutch when shifting into first." It has become a habit now and I don't even think about it anymore.
FYI: I appreciate my dealer, (EuroShop of Waco, Texas), because everything he said has been accurate.
For what its worth; when I picked up my '05 the dealer said, "you'd better slightly slip the clutch when shifting into first." It has become a habit now and I don't even think about it anymore.
FYI: I appreciate my dealer, (EuroShop of Waco, Texas), because everything he said has been accurate.
raymond braswell
Turbocharged
If you are in neutral at a stop you cannot engage into first with a toe tap. You have to put a little more behind it. I can pretty well feel it when it is engaged. I agree with not putting it into neutral at a stop. I only do it if I need to rest my clutch hand. I typically start it in neutral so I can leave the kickstand down. When ready to go I put the kick stand up and hit it pretty hard to engage into first, and as I said, I know the feel well enough now to know if it is engaged or not. If it is not, I will let the clutch out a little, then pull it back in and hit it hard and it always gets in.
Similar threads
