Top end steering wobble

[wsrvr]

Yo all, Has anyone had experience or access to a manual for adjusting the main yolk to remove any slop that might cause steering wobble at high speeds. I have an older version of a service manual for an R3, but it seems to be missing some key information as to how to get past the top triple tree and fork tube caps and seals, to get to the locking nut and adjusting nut on the yolk below the top tree. Appreciate any leads.

 

[atomsplitter]

Bishop on the .com site has a link to the service manuals. My guess is you'll need to slide the fork tubes down and remove the center nut.

 

[wsrvr]

I figured it out after a bit. Needed to hang the instrument and the handle bars out of the way and remove the cables and harnesses from the mounting clips. Then I slipped the upper yolk up and over the tubes after loosening the two top yolk clamp bolts. The other trick is to use a lift to get the weight off the front tire so the yoke slides easier and the steering stem and tubes are better aligned.

 

[evomind]

I would make sure you check everything else real good first before going through all that hassle, like the front tire. Also some bikes are very sensitive to air pressure....

 

[Idaho Red Rocket 3]

Hi WSRVR,

What did you find when you got in there? Where you able to make any adjustments that stopped the wobble ?

Bill.

 

[wsrvr]

I found that the tensioning nut on the steering stem was finger loose....I mean tip of the finger loose. I found that out when I removed the lock nut and was fingering the slotted washer off the stem, the tensioner nut moved at the tip of my finger touch. It was a way bit off from the bearing play torque spec. of 4 ft-lbs (6 NM) that the tensioner nut was suppose to be. I'll tell you if my effort was successful tomorrow after I take it for a wobble test.

 

[TOMCAT]

I found that the tensioning nut on the steering stem was finger loose....I mean tip of the finger loose. I found that out when I removed the lock nut and was fingering the slotted washer off the stem, the tensioner nut moved at the tip of my finger touch. It was a way bit off from the bearing play torque spec. of 4 ft-lbs (6 NM) that the tensioner nut was suppose to be. I'll tell you if my effort was successful tomorrow after I take it for a wobble test.

Well done .. your perseverance paid off .. good onya for finding out what was wrong and fixing it yourself .. old school rocks

 

[TURBO200R4]

I found that the tensioning nut on the steering stem was finger loose....I mean tip of the finger loose. I found that out when I removed the lock nut and was fingering the slotted washer off the stem, the tensioner nut moved at the tip of my finger touch. It was a way bit off from the bearing play torque spec. of 4 ft-lbs (6 NM) that the tensioner nut was suppose to be. I'll tell you if my effort was successful tomorrow after I take it for a wobble test.

Hi
to do the adjusting
on my triumph book page 14.16 it reads
slacken the locknut and adjuster nut.
adjust the bearing free play as follows:
a) tighten the adjuster nut to 40Nm
b) slacken the adjuster nut fully.
c) re-tighten the adjuster nut to 6Nm.
d) loosen the adjuster nut by 90 degrees
note that there will be free-play present.
e) hold the adjuster nut in that position while tightening the locknut to 40 Nm.
also it says
#8 check that the free play has been eliminated and that the steering can be turned freely from lock to lock without any sign of tightness. re-adjust if necessary.

i take it that means that there should not be preload on these bearings. if anyone has tried something different i would like to know.
herman

 

[zenbiker]

With the front of the bike off the ground, push back and forth on the forks with both hands. Is there play there? If not...save yourself a ton of work and look at your tires.
Most wobbles are not the result of steering neck issues but tire problems.