To join the Dark Side or Not?

[GPMAZ]

The point I was trying to make was that personal experience is not the only valid basis for having an opinion.

When it comes to tires, I see no reason to use a car tire. I have found that tires designed for the bike perform as well as I need them to perform. So far I prefer the Avon Cobras, but haven't tried the Bridgestones yet. They will be next.

Many here feel a car tire will handle as well as a motorcycle tire. I find the handling with motorcycle tires limited by ground clearance, not tire grip. As for stopping power, I've found that overuse of the rear brake is the biggest cause of traction issues. If you can't resist stomping on the rear brake, then yes, perhaps a car tire is a better choice. But if you're not taking advantage of the weight transfer and using mainly the front brake, I believe your stopping distances will suffer.

Now, if cost is the issue then absolutely a car tire is cheaper and will last longer. Coming from sportier bikes with tires that lasted 4-5,000 miles at best, I find the 8-10,000 I get on the R3T to be a luxury. When thinking about cost I equate the decision with using a quality helmet. If I couldn't afford a good one, I'd get a cheaper bike.

So, there's my opinion. Based on zero experience with car tires. But, after 51 years on motorcycle tires, I'll likely stick with what's worked so far.

 

[HansO]

The point I was trying to make was that personal experience is not the only valid basis for having an opinion.

When it comes to tires, I see no reason to use a car tire. I have found that tires designed for the bike perform as well as I need them to perform. So far I prefer the Avon Cobras, but haven't tried the Bridgestones yet. They will be next.

Many here feel a car tire will handle as well as a motorcycle tire. I find the handling with motorcycle tires limited by ground clearance, not tire grip. As for stopping power, I've found that overuse of the rear brake is the biggest cause of traction issues. If you can't resist stomping on the rear brake, then yes, perhaps a car tire is a better choice. But if you're not taking advantage of the weight transfer and using mainly the front brake, I believe your stopping distances will suffer.

Now, if cost is the issue then absolutely a car tire is cheaper and will last longer. Coming from sportier bikes with tires that lasted 4-5,000 miles at best, I find the 8-10,000 I get on the R3T to be a luxury. When thinking about cost I equate the decision with using a quality helmet. If I couldn't afford a good one, I'd get a cheaper bike.

So, there's my opinion. Based on zero experience with car tires. But, after 51 years on motorcycle tires, I'll likely stick with what's worked so far.

I never bought my Rocket to save money, If I had wanted an economical bike I would have stuck to my Honda ST 1100.
Before the ST I only ever rode Sports bikes and sometimes past thier limits
I dont realy care to much how many KM's I get out of a tyre, I do have extra clearance under my boards due to taller shocks and when I get into it on the Mtn I do scrap them then just lift my foot if you look at the picture of my front cobra you will see that I do take it to the edge.
I wish I had taken a photo of the back Metz I took of as it had bits missing out of the edge where it used go over the edge and then it would slide.
I agree in part with what you say about the back brake but they are an over powerfull brake fo our bike, why do you think they started putting ABS on them
I have found that the CT (not just any but a Hi Performance one) hangs on So much better.
but as I said to prove I'm not narrow minded like some I am going to try a Bridgestone and see if it is up to the job on the Mtn but If it is Not ............ you All will hear about it

 

[STRIPES]

Well yes here we go again.

.....Now after miles and miles I ride the twisties with the car tire but I still have a uneasy feeling about the tire. It has some characteristics that I don't like. Going through the twists from right to left the transition point is noticeable. It isn't a nice flow to the left or to the right motion. It has a "center" if you will .... a hump you have to cross to bring the over to the left lean or to the right lean. I hope you understand what I'm trying to say. Another is if you look at my car tire you will see that I have been "in some cases" riding on the sidewall. It has started to look thin on the side wall I might add. It's starting to "groove" out spots. I might have fell off the turnip truck yesterday but I know that a motorcycle or car tire is NOT meant to be run on the sidewall. I'm talking about I can't read the top portion of the letters on the sidewall. ......

You are so right about that "center" of the tire being noticeable. I remember the same sensation when running the big 245 and less when I went to the 235. I have a 225 on the R3R and I do not feel it now. However, now I have to put my feet on the ground when I come to a stop light. (That was a joke.)

 

[cardinal93]

Hanso,
What CT do you run? Sounds like you're riding style is close to mine....just wondering for future purposes.

 

[HansO]

It is a Federal 595 in a size 245/50/16

 

[CanberraR3]

You know, I'm so sick of hearing how fantastic a car tyre is "through the twisties". I ride my bike every dsay. It's transport, it's fun, it's recreation. I don't want to fight with it over the drive crossings I go over every day, or make it more difficult to move around in the car park or garage or have to worry about it rolling away when parked on a hill. And I don't want to ride it like I'm on a race track. I don't need a big fat square car tyre any more than I need training wheels. I know how to apply my rear brake properly and I know how to ride a motorcycle properly. I don't need some remedial aid to do that. Scraping pegs/boards proves nothing except you've had to lean your bike more. I can go through the same corner at the same speed and scrape or not scrape. It all gets down to how far I lean my body. Simple as that; riding technique/ability.

Those who have found that a bike tyre doesn't work for them only proves one thing. They have a preference for something else. It doesn't make motorcycle tyres inferior in any way. It's just a commentary on how they ride, their ability and what they prefer.

 

[HansO]

You know, I'm so sick of hearing how fantastic a car tyre is "through the twisties". I ride my bike every dsay. It's transport, it's fun, it's recreation. I don't want to fight with it over the drive crossings I go over every day, or make it more difficult to move around in the car park or garage or have to worry about it rolling away when parked on a hill. And I don't want to ride it like I'm on a race track. I don't need a big fat square car tyre any more than I need training wheels. I know how to apply my rear brake properly and I know how to ride a motorcycle properly. I don't need some remedial aid to do that. Scraping pegs/boards proves nothing except you've had to lean your bike more. I can go through the same corner at the same speed and scrape or not scrape. It all gets down to how far I lean my body. Simple as that; riding technique/ability.

Those who have found that a bike tyre doesn't work for them only proves one thing. They have a preference for something else. It doesn't make motorcycle tyres inferior in any way. It's just a commentary on how they ride, their ability and what they prefer.

:flame::bch: translation= ha ha ha ha got you al fired up but I still loves ya

 

[1olbull]

I intend on trying the car tire to experience it for myself. I do appreciate all the input of people that have posted their experiences with the car tire. This allows me to benefit from others experience of others.

Mr bull you are correct about the formulae. I was thinking of the one below

F=μN=μmg
F is force of friction. μ Is the coefficient of friction and N is force pushing down in Newtons or pounds. mg can be substituted for N. m is mass and g is the acceleration due to gravity.

SWEEEEEET!
The man knows his numbers.
"N" for normal force.
One of my favs is: V1=W1 x V1 prime x cos theta 1 prime + W2 x V2 prime x cos theta2 prime - W2 x V2 x cos theta2 / W1 x cos theta1
:soapbox:
PS: wish I could type the mu symbol

 

[mully95]

SWEEEEEET!
The man knows his numbers.
"N" for normal force.
One of my favs is: V1=W1 x V1 prime x cos theta 1 prime + W2 x V2 prime x cos theta2 prime - W2 x V2 x cos theta2 / W1 x cos theta1
:soapbox:
PS: wish I could type the mu symbol

I would like to know what language this is you're using.

 

[1olbull]

HansO,
YA BIG DEBIL !!!
Ya:kick: the man after he :flame:then ya all over him!
1olbull