Setting the valve timing

No dude I do not know what I am doing but usually between people on the site that I pay attention to I learn from then well I try to get a bunch of heads together to sort it out. Like I am going to get dressed and go down to the barn and see how much rotational movement you can get between the cam gears and the cams with the two 6 mm bolts in (see how much one could shift the gear with the bolts in if any) Right now it looks to me like you delayed the intake cam timing which seems to be moving the opening event from 12 BTDC to say 3 BTDC Just using the half crank tooth which is 9.47 degrees of crank movement.I have to run some ratio figures to see how much it rotates the cam gears. anyway it moves the opening event and the closing event of the intake cam from 28 ABDC to 37 ABDC leaving less of a compressing stroke left. See where I am going here? the draw stroke is the same it just starts later and the compression stroke is less.

Someone like Nev would just know this answer not have to try to reason and figure out what happens from the change.

Ok I found a cam gear down stairs 38 teeth so a half tooth on the crank 9.47 = 4.73 degrees of cam movement so instead of 12 BTDC were talking 7.26 degrees on the intake side. I should also note I measured about a .025 or .64 mm clearance between the cam bolts and the holes in the gears.
Oh well now I’m not even sure I can do cams in my own, great
 
paul I don’t see where you had to replace any valve shims, did you?

We'll mail you the alignment tool when you're ready (and the PC-3).

I had the wonderful assistance of @warp9.9 and while he used his machinist experience to measure the shims, and turns out I was o.k. and no changes needed - yet. And you'll want to order a custom valve depressor tool from @Bedifferent

I wouldn't worry about it -- again -- just take the time to carefully work through the sequence.
 
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