Setting the valve timing

No dude I do not know what I am doing but usually between people on the site that I pay attention to I learn from then well I try to get a bunch of heads together to sort it out. Like I am going to get dressed and go down to the barn and see how much rotational movement you can get between the cam gears and the cams with the two 6 mm bolts in (see how much one could shift the gear with the bolts in if any) Right now it looks to me like you delayed the intake cam timing which seems to be moving the opening event from 12 BTDC to say 3 BTDC Just using the half crank tooth which is 9.47 degrees of crank movement.I have to run some ratio figures to see how much it rotates the cam gears. anyway it moves the opening event and the closing event of the intake cam from 28 ABDC to 37 ABDC leaving less of a compressing stroke left. See where I am going here? the draw stroke is the same it just starts later and the compression stroke is less.

Someone like Nev would just know this answer not have to try to reason and figure out what happens from the change.

Ok I found a cam gear down stairs 38 teeth so a half tooth on the crank 9.47 = 4.73 degrees of cam movement so instead of 12 BTDC were talking 7.26 degrees on the intake side. I should also note I measured about a .025 or .64 mm clearance between the cam bolts and the holes in the gears.
Cool... still sinking in but yes I do see where your going.
 
Advancing or retarding cam timing moves the power band. Retarding it will move the power band higher in the rev range at the cost of low end torque. The amount we are talking about on a stock cam is probably not noticeable.
Advancing or retarding cam timing moves the power band. Retarding it will move the power band higher in the rev range at the cost of low end torque. The amount we are talking about on a stock cam is probably not noticeable.
 
did my valves on my 07 classic a few years back. had the same issue. I replaced the chain and the tensioner side chain guide as well as 10 shims. The only way i found to get it in time was to take a large plastic hand clamp and place it on the chain where it wraps around the crank gear and like warp said , keep the chain tight opposite then tensioner side. I fought mine for about a day. Putting the clamp on the chain where it wraps around the crank made it possible to get it
dead on after 4 rotations.
 
Well, installed a new chain, now all three timing marks line up nicely... Cheers, Nev... the snag all along was that the old chain measured in spec, 137mm over 23 links... the workshop manual states the chain is ok up to 147mm over 23 links.
 
Last edited:
Well, installed a new chain, now all three timing marks line up nicely... the snag all along was that the old chain measured in spec, 137mm over 23 links... the workshop manual states the chain is ok up to 147mm over 23 links.

Be thankful you have timing marks to work with. My crank gear was unmarked lol. That was a nice surprise after fighting with the cam ladder bolts on and off for 6 weeks.
 
Be thankful you have timing marks to work with. My crank gear was unmarked lol. That was a nice surprise after fighting with the cam ladder bolts on and off for 6 weeks.
The crank gear on my engine is also unmarked... but there is a dot on the crank itself above the upper crankcase line, bit hard to see at first if the clutch cover is not removed, it's there alright and can be lined up using a torch... once lined up you can mark the crank gear sprocket to make things easier.
 
Back
Top