Roadster headlight aiming?

Does anyone have any specific guidelines for aiming the headlights on a Roadster or other dual-headlight versions? I had a look through the service manual and it gives some good instructions on the "how" part, but with the unusual cutoffs for the beam pattern I'm not quite sure about the settings.

What I'm hoping for is something like "bike vertical on flat ground X feeet from a wall, measure height to the center of the headlamps - center of beam hot spot on the wall should be Y inches below the center of the headlamp bucket measurement on low beam".

Or does everyone just set it wherever and enjoy all the other drivers visually commenting that "we're number one"

I just while sitting on bike roll the up to a wall note where my high beam centre is and slowly roll back and if the centre is still in same spot at about 10 feet that's good enough for me

Measure from ground to headlight bulb with bike upright/rider on.
Place a "T" on a wall 20-25 feet away (I like 25 feet) at that same height measurement.
Mark a second line 2" below the top of the "T" ( a second horizontal line).

Now, aim your LOW beam so the top of the beam hits the 2" lower mark.
Use the "T' to center the left/right aim.

Simple, easy, and repeatable. Some prefer 20 feet. I like 25 feet on the R3 as the lights are very good. I use 20 on the Bonnie.

Thanks guys - now I just have to wait for it to get dark and break out the wrenches!

I just took my wrenches with me as I rode at night. I would ride a little and adjust, ride some more and adjust, until I got it where I wanted them. I have never really understood using the wall. I guess that gets them close but it's a different world altogether once the vehicle is going down the road. Four wheeled drive trucks that have lift kits is a new ball of wax altogether. What might look good on a wall might just blind on coming traffic or blind someone in a vehicle in front of the truck.

mully95 said:

I just took my wrenches with me as I rode at night. I would ride a little and adjust, ride some more and adjust, until I got it where I wanted them. I have never really understood using the wall. I guess that gets them close but it's a different world altogether once the vehicle is going down the road. Four wheeled drive trucks that have lift kits is a new ball of wax altogether. What might look good on a wall might just blind on coming traffic or blind someone in a vehicle in front of the truck.

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very true but The method I use gives you a good starting point and because Hi Beam needs to go distance I set it straight, the low beam should automatically by design be shinning at an angle downward and unless you are tailgating you will not be shinning in side the car in front I checked this against one of those devices that All service centre used to use which you actually sat directly in front of your light and with its internal mirrors told you how far you need to adjust it, I found that my method was so close that not even worth the effort to adjust, I on the other hand always adjust my Driving lights up and out to the sides to give max coverage with our bouncy furry friends here in Auss