cr0ft
Living Legend
Finally overcame my natural inertia and installed my PDM60. I managed to wedge it in fairly easily on the left side under the side cover; this also lets me just pop the cover off to see the lights on the PDM60 if something conks out to see if anything is showing red or yellow.
The PDM60 already saved me from having to replace at least once fuse; my Kuryakyn power point that I have on the handlebars has a cable that has two identical black wires coming out of it. Normally not an issue, since it had a red marker on the end, but I slashed the cable apart to hook it up via Posilocks - and then had to guess which one was positive and negative, plus I figured it didn't really matter. I guessed wrong since it also grounds up at the handlebars, so the first time I fired up the PDM60 it had a red light. So I created a short right out of the gates like a dummy. Quick switch of the cables and it was all greens, and no fuses to worry about!
I wound up with semi-ghetto grounding solution for it all, but it works and now I have a redundant ground cable to the frame.
Here's the cobbled together ground bus. It's well bolted on there with the one bolt and isn't going anywhere, but I added some steel wire anyway in the other end just in case. You can see a cable sleeve where I routed up everything from the side including the grey wire (which goes to the yellow cable under the fuse box which in turn goes to the rear light, it activates the PDM60 when I start the bike with the key) as well as the red wire that feeds power to everything via the PDM.
Worth noting is that the only reason I could put the grounding point there was that I had already removed the "reverse air scoop" that's screwed onto the underside of the R3 Touring seat; it's redundant due to a Ramair filter on the intakes. If that was still there, it would interfere with my ghetto ground bus solution.
Unnecessary closeup of said gray wire.
Here's the PDM itself. It's wedged in there and is held there by just the cable tie through the upper mounting hole (and of course all the cables should that somehow fail, though I don't see how). It's totally rigid there, clamped up against the fuse holder on the inside and the frame. The other end of the cable sleeve is where all the cables are routed up to the battery compartment and I've just folded all the cables and added a ziptie to hold them there.
I could obviously have trimmed much of that off, but I saw no reason to since it fits as is, and saving cable length may come in handy down the line for some reason. For instance, if I have to move things around to fit an McCruise which is a possibility...
Closeup of the ziptie, that I'm sure people will give me crap for.
And finally what it all looks like just before the side cover goes back on.
Nothing that special about the whole install, in other words, but I'm happy with it. And yes, everything (aside from the idiotic short I created myself from being too lazy to use a multimeter for 10 seconds to measure which cable was which) lights up just fine, with a 7 second delay after the keyswitch is turned on.
Currently using it for three things - circuit 4 and 5, set up to deliver 15 amps by default, power the 12 volt outlet and a bespoke outlet for my heated gloves. Circuit six, 10 amps (way overkill for this purpose) powers the headlight bypass relays. I could have used a 5 amp outlet easily since I have LED now, but since I had the 10 free... why not.
The PDM60 already saved me from having to replace at least once fuse; my Kuryakyn power point that I have on the handlebars has a cable that has two identical black wires coming out of it. Normally not an issue, since it had a red marker on the end, but I slashed the cable apart to hook it up via Posilocks - and then had to guess which one was positive and negative, plus I figured it didn't really matter. I guessed wrong since it also grounds up at the handlebars, so the first time I fired up the PDM60 it had a red light. So I created a short right out of the gates like a dummy. Quick switch of the cables and it was all greens, and no fuses to worry about!
I wound up with semi-ghetto grounding solution for it all, but it works and now I have a redundant ground cable to the frame.
Here's the cobbled together ground bus. It's well bolted on there with the one bolt and isn't going anywhere, but I added some steel wire anyway in the other end just in case. You can see a cable sleeve where I routed up everything from the side including the grey wire (which goes to the yellow cable under the fuse box which in turn goes to the rear light, it activates the PDM60 when I start the bike with the key) as well as the red wire that feeds power to everything via the PDM.
Worth noting is that the only reason I could put the grounding point there was that I had already removed the "reverse air scoop" that's screwed onto the underside of the R3 Touring seat; it's redundant due to a Ramair filter on the intakes. If that was still there, it would interfere with my ghetto ground bus solution.
Unnecessary closeup of said gray wire.
Here's the PDM itself. It's wedged in there and is held there by just the cable tie through the upper mounting hole (and of course all the cables should that somehow fail, though I don't see how). It's totally rigid there, clamped up against the fuse holder on the inside and the frame. The other end of the cable sleeve is where all the cables are routed up to the battery compartment and I've just folded all the cables and added a ziptie to hold them there.
I could obviously have trimmed much of that off, but I saw no reason to since it fits as is, and saving cable length may come in handy down the line for some reason. For instance, if I have to move things around to fit an McCruise which is a possibility...
Closeup of the ziptie, that I'm sure people will give me crap for.
And finally what it all looks like just before the side cover goes back on.
Nothing that special about the whole install, in other words, but I'm happy with it. And yes, everything (aside from the idiotic short I created myself from being too lazy to use a multimeter for 10 seconds to measure which cable was which) lights up just fine, with a 7 second delay after the keyswitch is turned on.
Currently using it for three things - circuit 4 and 5, set up to deliver 15 amps by default, power the 12 volt outlet and a bespoke outlet for my heated gloves. Circuit six, 10 amps (way overkill for this purpose) powers the headlight bypass relays. I could have used a 5 amp outlet easily since I have LED now, but since I had the 10 free... why not.
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